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COMPRISING 



IBS, m ii lilMSy, IF ITS ffllMl PUB i imHEST 



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FORMING A 



COMPANION FOR THE PLEASURE TOURIST. 



■' proud Btrenni 1 tho blrclicn barlca Ihnt wont ot old 
From cove to core to shoot ftthwivrt thy lid«, 

Tlie quivcrod nntior.i, eloquent and bold, 

Whoso siinplo fiire thy shores and depllis s.^piilied, 

Aje piisfled awny; and men of other mould 
Now o'er thy bosom llieir wing'J fiibrics gtiido ; 

AH while with sails thy keel-lhrongod wntors floo, 

Tluough one rich Ia{«u or plenty to Hut s»a. 



The ilu<i> Missouri hr.th a fiercer ior\g, 

Tho jVIi»s!^ip[ii jjoure a bolder iviive, 
And with n ,\, iiTning oraali the torront atroi^j, 

From the lijikcd hikes, lenpa to Xiagarii'a grave ; 
Y«t, when tliu storm-king amJtea his thundericg gMft 

Thy hilla reply from nuiny ft belloiving cave; 
And wheu with enilc-s the sun o'erlocks their biaW| 
He sees no streaia more bcautiftU lh«D thou." 



Mtm fnrk: 

T. W. STRONG, 98 NASSAU STREET. 



1852. 



Entered, according to Act of Congreea, in the year 1852, 

Bt THOMAS W. STRONG, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southorn District of New York. 






L. 





3llnsMit 




CARCELY are there to be found more 
favorite resorts of pleasure tourists, 
than the various rural retreats that deck 
the margin of the Hudson. This mag- 
nificent river, which takes its rise about 
two hundred and fifty miles North of 
New York, in a mountainous eountrj', 
on the confines of Canada, has been, 
not inaptly, styled the Rliine of Amer- 
ica. If its historic associations are few- 
er, its claims to romantic and pictur- 
esque' beauty are scarcely surpassed by 
any of the classic streams of the Old World. It abounds with 
scenery of the most e.xquisite beauty and sublimity. Its placid 
waters peacefully glide along their meandering course through 
varied scenes of 

" Hill and dale, fountain and fresh shade ; " 

now winding round the base of palisades and highlands, and 
now among leafy meadows, where Nature, when in her autum- 
^nal vestments, arrays herself in the pomp and magnificence of 
rainbow hues and brilliant dyes. Who can gaze unmoved up- 
on such varied fascinations? Harriet Martineau confessed that 
if she were a New Yorker she would devote one half her hours 
to the contemplation of its clustered charms. Besides its phys- 
ical beauties, however, the Hudson is consecrated by hallowed 
memories of some of the most heroic and touching passages in 
the story of our War of Independence. It was on the Hudson, 
also, that the incipient experiment of propelling a vessel by 
steam wa.s first achieved, and ere half a century has elapsed, it 
bears upon its bosom a thousand floating palaces, whose keels 
divide the limpid waters with such wondrous speed. 

It is somewhat remarkable that this noble river, so rife with 
all that inspires poetic sentiment, should, to a great e.xtent, 
have failed to have awakened the raptures of the poet, or en- 
listed the magic pencil of the artist ; and this is but rendered 
the more conspicuous, when it is remembered that it is one of 
the gi'eat highways of commerce, as well as the chosen route 
of thousands of pleasure tourists. It is with the view of sup- 
plying this deficiency that we propose to group together, by 
pen and pencil, the manifold attractions presented to the eye 
of those who may make the tour of the Hudson, that the fol- 
lowing pages have been prepared. Before, however, we com- 
mence our ad libitxtm tour, suffer us to enact the cicerone for 
the good old city from which we propose to start, and take a 
glance at some of its leading objects of interest. 

Of the antiquities of the city of New York, little need be 
said, for very few now e.vist ; almost every vestige of the past 
having been annihilated by the utilitarian spirit of the age, or 
the mouldering hand of Time. One of the most remarkable 
relics of past days, still extant, is the Walton House, in Pearl 
Street, Franklin Square ; it was built in 1754, by William Wal- 
ton, a wealthy English merchant. It is a spacious mansion, 
and exhibits evidences of a style of splendor, in which we are 
unaccustomed to believe our sturdy forefathers indulged. In 
William Street, midway between John and Fulton Streets, once 



stood a little frame house, memorable as being the birth-place 
of the great American Essayist, Washington Irving. It has 
recently given place to a stately row of brick buildings. Ken- 
nedy House, so called during the war, is situated No. 1 Broad- 
way ; it was the head-quarters of Lord Cornwallis, General 
Clinton, Lord Howe, and other British commanders at that 
time. John Street derives its name from John Harpendingh, 
who gave the gro\md on which the Dutch Church was built, 
and whose escutcheon is there preserved. Trinity Church, 
built in the Cathedral style, and which may be regarded as the 
metropolitan religious edifice, stands on the site of two earlier 
churches of that name; the first built in 1696, which was de- 
stroyed by fire, and the second, erected in 1788, which a few 
years since has given place to the present beautiful structure. 
The height of the tower exceeds the length of any ship afloat. 
A niagnifkeut panorama of the city is presented from the sum- 
mit, which is ascended by three hundred and eight steps. About 
one hundred and sixty thou.sand bodies are said to have been 
interred hi the cemetery, exclusive of the Seven Years' War, 
when no records were kept. Amongst the most interesting 
monuments, are those of General Hamilton, and Captain Law- 
rence, of the " Chesapeake." General Jlontgomery, who fell 
at the storming of Quebec, 1775, and Thomas Emmet, are bu- 
ried in St. Paul's Church-yard. Columbia College, Park Place, 
is full of classic memories ; it was called King's College in the 
time of the British domination. Of the Merchant's Exchange, 
and the Custom House, as well as the Astor House, Stewart's, 
and other imposing edifices of the city, it is not necessary to 
speak ; and we shall at once proceed upon our projected tour 
in search of the picturesque. Two hundred and forty-three 
years ago, according to the best chroniclers, Hcndrick Hudson, 
the first European discoverer, made his exploring expedition up 
this noble river. Like the great Genoese, he was a bold and 
courageous navigator, and like him too, he encountered not only 
the perils of the deep, but also suffered from the mutinous dis- 
affection of his ci-ew. During his third voyage of discovery, in 
1610, he, with his son, who had accompanied liim in all his voy- 
ages, was sent adrift in a small open boat, and never after heard 
of. Most of the mutineers were subsequently massacred by 
the savages, and a miserable remnant finally reached Ireland. 
The Hudson has been variously called the River of Mountains, 
the Great River, and the North River ; in early times it was 
styled the Mohican River, and Irving, in his " Knickerbocker," 
refers to it by its Indian name, Shatemuck. What a mighty 
revolution has passed since the days of Hudson ! Instead of 
the wild desolation of the savage, the eye is now greeted on 
every side by the indications of happy industry and civilization. 
Great as is the retrospect of the past, the augury of the future 
is yet more imposing and sublime. The scene from the Battery 
is one of enchanting beauty. The broad expanse of the Bay 
of New York, with its embosomed islands to the South, the 
Heights of Brooklyn on the East, and the shores of New Jer- 
sey, with the Bergen Heights, Kil van cul and Newark Bay on 
the West, present a panoramic picture of surpassing beauty. 
To the North the noble Hudson courses its majestic way, gleam- 
ing with its numerous craft, while the blue distance is bounded 
by its Highlands or towering ledge of Palisades. 

Two modes of conveyance being presented to the tourist, the 
railroad and the steamboat, those whose object it is to make a 
pleasant trip up the Hudson, will make choice of the ktter, 
since it affords much superior facilities for enjoying the several 
objects of interest which lie along its banks. On the opposite 
shore to New York is Jersey City, or Paulus Hook, which de- 
rives considerable importance from its being the starting point 
of the Philadelphia railroad. Here, also, is the station of the 
Paterson and Erie railroad, and the Morris Canal, which unites 
the Hudson with the Delaware at Philipsburg. This canal is 
over one hundred miles in extent, and is said to have cost two 
million six hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The dock of 
the Cunard Steamers is located here. A little to the North of 
Jersey City is Hoboken; a beautiful suburban retreat, much 



[rfMHMWMr- 



•^/itir'^jiikair^.M*'. 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 




DOi5BS' FERRY. 



frequented by tlic denizens of New York. It is adorned with 
linuscs and Wllas, and has many sinnous and picturesque walks, 
w liicli aro oinluiwercd by richest foliage. There is a grotto, with 
a spring, called the " Sybil's Cave;" and on the headland above, 
called Castle Point, stands the house and grounds of Colonel 
Stevens. From tliis elevation there is a beautiful i>anoramic 
view of the "Empire City." The Elysian Fields, witli its spread- 
ing lawns and lu.xurious foliage, stretches onward to Weebaw- 
ken Blutf on tlie North, and the Bergen Heights on the West. 
These precipitous accUvities present a wild aspect, being in part 
composed of huge masses of rock, intersected with brushwood. 

The celebrated Duelling Ground, where the fatal rencontre 
took place between Col. Burr and Gen. Hamilton, in 1801, is 
on the margin of tlie river, completely encompassed with rocks, 
and seems peculiarly adapted in its seclusion as a place for the. 
-settlement of the so called aflairs of lienor. The deeply 
lamented death of Hamilton was commemorated by the erec- 
tion of .1 neat marble monument on the spot, but both it and 
his remains have been since removed to the cemetery of Trin- 
ity Church. On the opposite side of the river is the old Stales 
Prison and execution dock. In one of the apartments of the 
Bayard House, behind this building, is tlie place where Gen. 
Hamilton breatlicd his last, ho having been conveyed tliither 
from tlio scene of liis slaughter. 

Bull's Ferry is a shady little nook, a short distance north- 
ward. In addition to its orchards and pleasure grounds, its 
surrounding scenery is exceedingly varied and picturesque. 

Fort Lee, a rocky bluff, three hundred feet in height, forms 
the commencement of the Palisades. These extend about 
twenty-five miles up the river on the western shore, when they 
strike back into the country northward. The form of these 
perpendicular difts and the slope beneath them to the water, 
is e.vaetly similar to those of the northern coast of Ireland, ad- 
joining the Giant's Causeway: the quality of the stone, however, 
is not the same. It is a species of coarse basalt or trap rock 
in columnar niiusses, which are generally of the he.xagon form. 
The height of these majestic ridges varies from two hundred to 
six hundred feet. They are surmounted by an extended fringe 
of forest trees as far as tlie eye can reach, which from their 
elevated position resemble shrubs rather than tall trees. About 
half way down to the water's edge, is an acute bank of broken 
fragments of rock, « Inch from the action of the atmosphere, aro 
occasionally precipitated in large masses. At their base are 
often to be seen many little sheltered nooks and patches of 
arable land with cottages and farms. From (he top of tho 
clifl's here, the ground descends in a gradual slope to the Hack- 
ensack river about five miles distant. Here are still to bo 
found some .specimens of the veritable old Dutch population 
where the language of the fatherland continues to be tho ver- 



nacular. Receding still farther from the city, the island of 
Manhattan presents a highly picturesque shore, with its bills 
and dales adorned with cottages and beautiful Nillas. The 
Orph.in Asylum is the next building that attracts attention. It 
is a handsome specimen of the Gothic. 'I'he Lunatic Asylum 
also is seen standing on a high eminence, w hicli commands a 
delightful view of the East River, Long Island Sound, the Hud- 
son, and surrounding counties. Li the rear of this edifice the 
ruins of a fort still remain, one of the monuments w hicli memo- 
ralize the birth of American freedom. On the hill overlooking 
the river and the valley of Manhattanville is Clermont, one of 
the most interesting residences on the island, and celebrated as 
liaving been once the abode of Joseph Bonaparte, Viscouni 
Courteney, and Mr. Jackson the British minister. 

SlAnnATTANVCLLE Contains but few houses, but is prettily 
situated iu a valley encompassed by bills and thicli woods. It 
has a dock and is seen to gi-eat advantage frcjin the river. It 
has been stated that some yeai-s since ui excavating at the 
mouth of the cove for the projected Canal here, large quanti- 
ties of timber were laid bare, lying several feet below the level 
of the river. The wood was sound, universally cedar, and of a 
daik color, and lay as if a hunicane had pa.ssed over the forest 
and torn it up. From this, it is conjectured that either the river 
has increased in elevation during a long la])so of years, or that 
those trees were the remains of an antedeluvian world. The 
geologist, however, will doubtless dissent from the former opin- 
ion, since the evidences e.xisting on the west side of the river 
especially, in the substrata, would immediately conflict with it. 
It is curious to remark that for nearlj' thirty miles up the Hud- 
son, the western shore presents uniformly either some variety 
of trap rock, conglomerate or secondary formation, while the 
eastern abounds in primitive or granite rock, as also the entire 
island of Manhattan. From Manhattanville to Fort Washing- 
ton are a range of finely wooded heights, s\\eeping gracefully 
to the shore. The mounds of the old fort arc still to be seen. 
The view from there is one of the finest in the vicinity of New 
York. Fort Washington is a spot of some celebrity iu (he 
Revolutionary annals. When the army retreated to White 
Plains, it was decided to leave a garrison here under Colonel 
Magan, to pi'event the enemy from ascending the river. It was 
attacked by the British ship of war '■Mercury," but a well 
dhccted shot caused a speedy retreat, and to .save the lives of 
the crew she was run on shore, opposite to where now stands 
the .seventh mile stone on the Bloomingdale road, but soon 
after fell off and sank in deep water. Several attempts have 
been made by means of a diving bell, to recover some of her 
armament and stores, but without much success. The attack 
upon the fort was made from four different points by the Brit- 
ish and Hessians. The loss to the British amounted to about 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



twelve hundred men, but (he spirited defence in consequence 
of a deficiency in amunition availed nothing; the garrison, com- 
posed of twenty-six hundred militia and regular troops surren- 
dered. This serious loss spread a gloom over the American 
cause. The surrender of Fort Lee followed soon after. About 
two miles above Fort Washington is Spuyten Duyi-el Creek. 
It takes its name from the following circumstance which is 
humorously related in Knickerbocker's History of New York. 
It is in substance as follows; — "On the arrival of the English 
under the command of Col. Nichols, who with the authority of 
the Briti.sh Crown, claimed the city of New Amsterdam, An- 
tony Van Corlcar, the renowned trumpeter of the chivalrous 
Governor Stuyvesant, was despatched to sound the alarm along 
the pastoral borders of the Bronx, startling the wild solitudes 
of Croton, arousing the rugged yeomanry of Weehawken and 
Hoboken, the mighty men of battle of Tappan Bay and the 
brave boys of Tai-rytown and Sleepy Hollow, togelher with all 
the warriors of the country round about, charging them one 
and all to .sling their powder horns, slioulder their fowling 
pieces ind march merrily down to the Manhattoes. It was a 
dark and stormy night when the good Antony at the famous 
creek, (sagely denominated Harlem river,) which separates the 
island of Alanhattan from the main land. The wind was high, 
the elements were in a roar, and no Charon could be found to 
ferry the adventurous sounder of brass across the \\ater. For 
a short time he vapored like an impatient ghost upon the brink, 
and then bethinking himself of the urgency of his errand, took 
a hasty embrace of his stone bottle, swore most valorously ha 
would swim across en spight tier Duyrel, (in spite of the devil,) 
and daringly plunged into the stream. Luckless Antony! 
scarce had he buffeted half way over when he was observed to 
struggle violently, as if battlingwith thcspiritof the waters; in- 
stinctively he put his trumpet to his mouth, and giving a vehe- 
ment bla.st, sank forever to the bottom." 

The next spot of interest on the Eastern shore is Philips- 
burgh, or Yonkers. Fordhara Heights, and Tetard's Hill, in 
this vicinity, are memorable spots in our revolutionary history. 
It is a neat little village. In the struggle for independence, 
this was a manor belonging to the family from whom it derives 
its name, and equal to a German principality in extent. The 
possessor, however, clinging to the side of the Mother country, 
the property became confiscated, and has since been divided and 
subdivided among many proprietors. The spire of its church 
rising above the trees, and the fine old stone mansion surround- 
ed by a grove of Chestnut trees, give to this village a beautiful 
effect as seen from the water. 

DoEBs' Ferry, which derives its name from the ferry used to 
across the river diiring the Revolutionary War, was a place of 
considerable importance during that eventful epocli. Piermont, 
on the Western shore, so called from its pier, which is a mile 
in length, is where the New York and Erie Railroad commen- 
ces. A ferry connects it with the Dearman Station and the 
Hudson River Railroad. In the immediate vicinity, is Sunny- 
side, the residence of Washington Irving. It is surrounded 




DEARMAN 



with foliage, in one of the most enchanting little nooks on the 
river. The house has been restored and beautified by Mr. 
Irving. It stands on the site of the famous "Wolfert's Roost" 
of the olden time. It was built by Wolfert Eckcr, an ancient 
burgher of (he town, and afterward came into the possession 
of Jacob Van Ta.ssel, one of the "race of hard-headed, hard- 
handed, stout-hearted Dutchmen, descended of the primitive 
Nethcrlandcrs." 

Tatpan is memorable from the tragic fate of Colonel Bay- 
lor's regiment there. They occupied a large barn in the village, 
and in the dead of night during their slumbers, through the 
negligence of an out-jiost, lliey were surprised and massacred 
without quai-ter by Hie British, under Gen. Grey. Here the river 
spreads, forming what is called Tappan Bay, or Tappaan Zee, 
as ihc Dutch styled it — where ihey cautiously took in sail or sel- 
dom naxHgated except in smooth «ater. Ijic village cf Tap- 
pan will also ever be an object of dcej) interest liom its connec- 
tion wilh the history of the conspiracy of Arnold and the 
wretched fate of his accomplice Andre. The site of (he execu- 
tion of the latter, and the place of his buiial, is situated about 
a mile from the town, and is pointed out to the traveller. The 
story of Arnold's conspiracy is in brief as follows: 

At Tarrytown, which is about a mile beyond Tappan, on the 
Eastern shore, is a Dutch Church, nearly two hundred 
years old ; it is near this jilace w here Major Andre was ca])turcd 
by Paulding, Van Wart and Williams, of the militia. Amon- 
muent is erected to the memory of Van Wart, who died some 
time since. It stands by the road-side in a retired valley in (he 
town of Greenbush, about three miles from Tarrytown. Ben- 
edict Arnold distinguished himself from the commencement of 
the war for his extraordinary bravery and intrepidity. He had 
succeeded in the bold and difficult attempt to invade the Cana^ 
das from the State of Maine, where (he sufferings of himself 
and soldiers excited (he universal sympathies of the Na(ion to- 
wards him: and up to the time of his being appointed to (he 
command of West Point, in Nov. 1779, he enjoyed the highest 
confidence. Oii'ended, however, at the reproof of Washington, 
for certain acts of dishoncs(y \\hich it is said his excessive 
cupidity had betrayed him into, he formed the treacherous 
and base plan for delivering the Fortress at West Point in- 
to the hands of the British. The residence of Gen. Arnold was 
at the house of Col. Robinson, who had relinquished it and 
joined (he Royal Army. It was here (he proposal was first 
made. Major Andre and Col. Robinson were (he agents on 
the part of the British, \\ith whom Arnold also held fi-equent 
communications from on board (he Sloop of War Vulture. 
Major Andre was at that time twenty-nine years of age. From 
his excellent accomplishments and cultivated taste for the fine 
arts, and his proticience in most of them, as well as his rapid 
progi-ess in military rank and re])utation, he liad secured to 
himself the respect and marked esteem of the British Army. 
'I here was sonie(hing singularly interesdng in (he character and 
fortunes of Andre. In early life he had formed an attachment 
to a young lady in England, (he marriage of whom wi(h a more 
successful rival, drove him disappointed to the bustling 
pursuits of the Camp. But in the height of his mili- 
tary career, flushed with new hopes from the execu- 
tion of a project the most beneficial to his party that 
rould be devised, he was at once precipit.ated from the 
summit of his prosperity and all his e.xpcct.ations of am- 
bition were blasted. On Sept. 23, 1780, tlie day fol- 
lowing the I'atal interview wilh Arnold, as lie vas 
conveying the communications for (he Bri(ish Com- 
mander in New York, he was met by the three men 
before named, whom Andre, believing (o belong to 
the British, confessed that he did also; upon which 
they seized him. But although he presented after- 
wards his passport frtun Arnold, ihis but excited (heir 
lur(hcr .suspicion, and (hey consequently commenced 
searching him, when lliey discovered the treasonable 
]iapers secreted in his stockings. He was conducted 
forlhwith to Col. Jameson, tried by a court-martial at 
the head of which was Gen. Lafayette, and finally ex- 
ecuted as a Spy, near Tappan, on the 2d of October. 
JIajor Andre had many liiends in the American Army, 
and even Washington is reported to have shed tears 
over the warrant for his execution. Every possible 
effort was made by Sir Henry Clinton in his favor, 
but it was deemed important that the decision of the 



Vv,^^<iVft\i^ 



1 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 




Boiud III" War sliould In; enrried inlo execiilion. Poor 
An(ln^".s last reinu^st to \V!isljinf,'loii was that lie might bo 
shot latliitr than <lio on a gibbet. IJad Andre alone been 
tiic parly eoneerned, tliis ajipeal liad seeured his |)ai'don; 
but the Britisli refusing to give up Arnold, AVushington 
had no alternative. His remains were removed some years 
since from their first resting place by desire of (ieorgc IV. 
when Regent, and re-interred in the Jlausoleuni erected to 
lis memory in Westminster Abbey. The place of his in- 
terment at Tappan was originally marked by one solitary 
cypress. On disinterment, the roots of the tree were found 
to have entwined themselves around the skull of the de- 
ceased. This tree has since been transplanted into the Roy- 
al Gardens at Windsor Castle. A strange coincidence is 
recorded of the tree under which Andre was captured. 
On the very day the news was received at Tarrytown, 
,Iuly 31, 1801, it was destroyed by lightning. The exe- 
crable Arnold, wlio escaped to the Rrilish Camp, received 
as the reward of his perfidy the rank (jf Brigadier (ieneral 
and a grant of i,'IO,t)00. He died at Gloucester I'laee, 
London, in 1801. His four surviving children also each 
receive an annuity of £100 from the British Government. 

In the neighborhood is Sleki'y Hollow with its umr- 
muring l)rook. It is a spot rendered famous for the woes 
and mishaps that in its ])recincts fell u]ion the luckless 
head of Ichabod Crane in his pursuit after the broad lands 
and blooming person of Katrina Van Tassel. For aught 
ihat is said to the contrary, the headless horseman may 
still awake the sleepy cclioes in his nocturnal rambles. 
But where are Brom Bones and his better lialf? This se- 
cr(^t doubtless yet remains, like the house of Van Tassel, 
in the possession of the amusing Idstoriogi-aphcr, whose 
skill in Dutch lore is only perhaps equalled by Ins exqui- 
site taste in the decoration of liis present Dutch domain. 
As every one is supposed to have read the legend of Sleepy 
Hollow, it is needless for us to recite it here. 

On the opposite shore to Tarryto^Ti, is the little village 
of NrACK, which is snugly ensconced at the base of a high 
cliff. Returning again to the Eastern shore, wo might 
mention, that the County of Westchester, extending along 
the river as far as the Highlands, during the Revolution- 
ary War lay between the out])osts of the contending 
armies, and was a scene of clustering woes to the inhabi- 
tants. Many of the most stirring scenes in Cooper's "Spy" 
are laid in this debatable ground. 

Sing Sing, or Mount Pleasant, is an improving village 
situated on a steep accli\ ity and commanding an extensive 
view of the river and adjacent Highlands. There is here 
also a Sleepy Hollow, or clove, which smne erroneously 
believe to be that mentioned in the Sketch Book. Sing 
Sing was originally so called from the Chinese City, Tsing 
Tsing, which was given to this place by a Dutch merchant 
who traded vnth China. This is where tlie imposter Mat- 
thias practised his cheats. Folger and his wife, it is said, 
still remain here: these were among his devotees. They 
have, however, long since ceased to suffer the obloquy due 
to their former folly and fanaticism. The new State Pri- 
son stands on the edge of the water, a little to the south 
of the village. It has an imposing appearance from the 
river, resembling more some impregnable fortress rather 
tlian a receptacle for felons. It is very extensive, meas- 
uring four hundred and eighty feet in length, forty-four 
feet in width, and is five stories high. It has also two 
wings, three hundred feet in extent, and includes a spacious 
Cliapel and Governor's House. It is capable of containing 
about one thousand prisoners, allowing to each a solitary 
cell. It is built of coarse white marble which is found in 
abundance in neighboring quarries. The entire edifice 
was erected by the prisoners at the cost of two hundred 
thousand dollars. ]\Iuch of the marble in this quarry is 
in a state of decomposition ; it will crumble with the 
touch. The prisoners are apprenticed to various trades, 
and it is curious to inspect the many branches of handicraft 
carried on at this institutioiL The produce from this 
source has been more than sufficient to defray the expen- 
ses of the establishment, occasionally, indeed, yielding a 
large surplus. During the past year its surplus is seven- 
teen thousand seven hundred and seventy-six dollars. The 
surrounding scenery of Sing Sing is very picturesque. 



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THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 




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SING SING. 



or lake sccrcry. Havcistraw Village is on the West side of 
the Bav. 'I his town inrludcs Gnissy Point and Stony Point, 
with the old Forts of ('lintnn and Montf,'()niery, so eeli'lirated 
in Iho Revoii.tionary War. The latter is a bold rough prom- 
ontory. 

The Croton River rises about two miles above Sing Sing, 
and is conveyed through pipes to the City of New York. The 
Croton A()\ieduct is a splendid piece of masonry. The 
public works connected with this great enterprise, whidi was 
commenced in 1835 and completed in 1842, it is estimated 
have cost $14,000,000. Tlie Fountain Reservoir isonc hundred 
and si.vty-six feet above the level of tide water. From this 
source the water is conveyed a distance of two miles, in iron 
pipes, to the Receiving Reservoir, and thence throughout the 
city. In its course it passes through tunnels cut out of the solid 
rock, until it reaches the Harlem river, where it passes over 
the "High Bridge," one thousand four Inmdred and fifty feet 
long, and at an elevation of one hundred and fourteen feet. 
This ai|ueduct has a descent of about thirteen inches per mile, 
and when but two-thirds full of water, discharges si.xty millions 
of gallons per day. The Croton Dam is an object of especial 
interest, and will repay a visit. Haverstraw, on the Western 
side of the Hudson, is pleasantly located on an elevated pl.v 
teau. About three miles to the North, on a jutting headland, 
is Stony Pcunt. 

In the rear of Fort Clinton is Bloody Pond, so called from 
I its having been the place into which were thrown the bodies of 
those slain in the defence of these forts. Fort Clinton was 
fortified during the war, and taken from Gen. Wayne by the 
] British in mS; but on the 15th ofiuly of the following year, 
it w.as retaken by this brave man under circumstances of sin- 
gular difficulty. On passing the last abbatis, he received a 
wound in the head by a musket ball, notwithstanding which, 
he insisted on being carried forward, jirolesting that if he 
died, he wished it might be in the Fort. Instciid of tower 
and battlement, however. Stony Point is now surmounted by a 
light-house. The deadly game of war has happily been ex- 
changed for the ennobling and peaceful arts of commerce — the 
fcarfid engine of destruction for the beacon of safety. 

The fortress of Stony Point commands the waters of the 
Hudson, which are here contracted into a very narrow channel 
by Ihe ])rojeclion of Grassy Point, in the vicinity. The Brit- 
ish took advantage of this in order to prevent vessels from 
passing. But Wasliington considered it so important that he 
resolved to take it by the bayonet. For this j)urpose, he 
reconnoiterc.d it from the neighboring hills; planned the attack, 
and appoiiite<l Wayne, the well-known "Mad Anthony," to ex- 
ecute it. On the evening of July 15, 1779, that General para- 
ded his two hundred and ninety picked men fourteen miles 
above Stony Point, and marched Ihem silently through swamps 
and over higiilands, reaching the bank opposite the insulated 



fortress, which was erected on the top of that steep conical hill 
where the light-house now stands. The deep river swept 
around its front, and it w;is cut oil' from the West bank by a mo- 
rass always covered at high tide. It was gari-isoned by fi\e 
hundred and forty men, and well supplied with military stores. 
Wayne now explained to his men the plan of attack ; for mitil 
then they were ignorant of the object of the expedition. Two 
columns were fcjrmed, one under Lieut. Col. I''leury, and the 
other under Major Stuart. Each was headed by a. forlorn hope, 
of twenty men, to clear obstructions. Not a shot was to be 
fired, and they agreed to kill any man who made disturbance 
before the assault commenced. In perfect silence the two col- 
umns moved breast deep in the water to scale the fort on both 
sides at once. .lust as they were ascending the hill, some con- 
fusion aroused the enemy, who poured a storm of lead and 
iron on the advancing ranks. Wayne was one of the first \\ ho 
fell, being wounded in the head. He cheered on the men, and 
they rushed forward, .scaled the walls, and the columns met in 
the centre. They were just about to deploy to bayonet the 
gunners, when the firing of the British ceased, .and a cry for 
quarter completed the victory. Fifteen of the Americans were 
killed, and eighty-three wounded. Sixty-three of the Briti.-h 
were killed, and the rest taken prisoners. Wayne immediately 
wrote to Washington as follows : 

"Stony Point, 2 o'clock, A. M., ) 
July 16, 1779. \ 

Dear General — The American flag waves here ! 

Yours truly, Anthony Wayne." 

The beautiful edifice hero seen from the river, is the Acade- 
my kept by Messrs. Phippen. 

Verflank's Point is on the Eastern side, which forms an- 
other acute angle on the river. Here a fort was also erected. 
The view from this spot is exceedingly beautiful. 7 he passage 
through the Highlands at West Point, still retains Ihe old name 
of Wey-gate, or Wind-gate. Nearly opposite stands Gibraltar, 
or Caldwell's Landing, which forms the commencement of the 
Highlands. 

By wooded bluff we steal, by leaning lawn, 

By palace, village, cot, a Kwect surprise 

At every turn the vision breaks upon ; 

Till to our wondering and uplifted eyes, 

The Highland rocks and hills in solemn grandeur rise. 

It is here some credulous people, in days gone by, whose cu- 
pidity exceeded their wit, sought for the supposed sunken treas- 
ures of the notorious Captain Kidd. 

On the East shore is Peekskill, a picturesque town, beauti- 
fully situated, and looking out upim the lofty Dunderbergh, or 
Thunder Mountain. On the village green is shown the tree on 



HUDSON ILLUSTRATED 



which Palmer, a British spy in the American 
camp, was executed in 1779. The magnifi- 
cent Hio;hIand3,the Matteawan mountains of 
the Indians, now begin to rear themselves 
in majestic grandeur to the height of from 
one thousand two hundred to one thousand 
five hundred feet. Here the mighty waters 
of this beautiful river, pent up within the 
narrow channel of these stupendous moun- 
tains, rush impetuously along, seemingly im- 
patient of restraint, while coursing their way 
onward, they again retire into peaceful slum- 
bers in the deep shadows of the encircling 
Highlands, and assume the appearance of 
some beautiful inland lake. This country 
oflers no scenes, perhaps, more grand and 
sublimely beautiful than those of these High- 
lands, independently of those associations 
of ever-enduring interest, wliich att.ach tlicm- 
selves to almost every spot of this mountain 
pass. According to "the theory of the late 
Dr. Mitchell, "this solid barrier of rock, 
which is si.xteen miles wide, and extends 
along both sides of the Hudson to the dis- 
tance of twenty miles, in ancient days seems 
to have impeded the course of the water, and to have raised 
a lake high enough to cover all the country to Quaker Hill and 
the Taghkanic Mountains on the East, and to Shawangunk and 
the Catskills on the West, extending to the Little Falls of the 
Mohawk, and to the Hadley Falls of the Hudson, but by some 
convulsion of Nature, the mountain cliain had been broken, and 
thus the rushing waters found their way to the now New York 
Bay." 

During the early part of the war, a gentleman named Wood 
was residing about seven miles from Peekskill. He was a 
zealous whig, but the associations and tastes of his English 
wife, caused her prejudices to decide in favor of the loyalists. 
Among the inmates of the family, was Miss Moncriefte, a visi- 
tor from New York, and the daughter of Major Moncriefle of 
the English army. This lady was young, of surpassing beauty, 
fascinating manners, and possessed of rare accomplishments, 
with intellectual gifts of a high order. Her beauty, the care 
and richness lavished upon her dress, combined with her pleas- 
ing attainments, dazzled all those who came within the range 
of her influence, and Mr. Wood's house soon became the resort 
of all those who could obtain the acquaintance of this beauti- 
ful and spirited girl. Among the visitors who thronged around 
the brilliant lady, were several officers of the American army. 
It was not in the power of these to resist the enslaving charms 
of their beautiful countrywoman, and they were delighted to 
find that her sentiments sympathised with the patriotic cause, 
and listened with unqualified pleasure to the words of patriot- 
ism from lips so fair, and to the approbation of one to whom 
it was not in their power to resist doing homage. She encour- 
aged conversation upon the state of the country and its pros- 
pects, and so unrestrained became their connection, that confi- 
dential disclosures were made to her from time to time, and by 
insinuating questions, she would often learn all tlie plans and 
movements in contemplation to circumvent the enemy. 

Jliss Moncriefl'e was an excellent equestrian. She rode out 
every day, sometimes accompanied, but oftener alone. She 
could ride any horse, however sjnrited, and usually went abroad 
in a magnificent costume, that from its exceeding beauty and 
singular style, received much comment. One morning, as she 
was taking her accustomed ride alone, on passing a farm-house, 
the barking of a dog that suddenly sprang into the road, fright- 
ened the horse. The animal started aside ; she was thrown to 
the ground and so severely stunned as to be entirely insensible. 
The people ran out from the house, and lifting her up, carried 
her in and laid her on a bed. While endeavoring to restore 
her, they unbuttoned the vest of her riding habit, to allow 
her to breathe more freely, when a letter fell out, which was 
picked up and laid on the table. It was not long before she 
began to recover consciousness, and in a few minutes was fully 
restored to her senses. Suddenly observing the open flaps of 
her vest, she started up in great agitjition, exclaiming — 

" Who unbuttoned my waistcoat? Where is the letter ? ah, 
I am lost — lost ! " 

A woman at her side took up the letter and was about to 




PRISONERS AT SIKG SING. 



hand it to her, when a nuui standing by, whose suspicions were 
aroused by the strangeness of her manner, sprang forward and 
seized it. With the greatest alarm and anxiety, she begged 
him to return it, but as he observed it was addressed to New 
Y'ork, and more and more suspicious from tlie over anxiety of 
her manner, he positively refused to deliver it up, until its con- 
tents should be known. Finding her eflbrts to obtain the let- 
ter in vain, and having received no injury from her fall, she was 
obliged to mount her horse and depart w ithout it. 

Tlicre was now but one course for her to pursue. An expo- 
sure of the contents of the letter would prove her ruin. She 
immediately began to prepare for returning to New York, but 
before she could get ready to depart, a party of soldiers rode 
up and entered the house, and the officer informed her that she 
must be considered as a prisoner, and be conducted to the dc- 
■signation pointed out by his orders. 

It was ascertained that the letter thus opportunely discovered, 
contained information relative to an intended movement of the 
American army. It was proved in the examination, that the 
young lady was in the habit of sending her British friends the 
information she acquired in her intercourse with the young 
Ameiican officers, who, supposing her to be actuated by a strong 
interest in the cause they espoused, had confided to her tha 
secrets of the army. When she wrote a letter, she concealed it 
in the vest of her riding habit, and riding by an appointed spot, 
contrived to drop it upon the gTound unseen, when it was im- 
mediately picked up by an accomplice hid in the bushes, and 
then conveyed from hand to hand, until it reached New York. 
All this came to light by the confession of the accomplice him- 
self. 

Miss Moncrieffe was detained as a prisoner. Her country- 
men, not disposed to deal harshly with one so young, beautiful 
and accomplished, postponed her trial from time to time, until 
at last she was given up to her friends. 

OscAWANA and Abbott's Point Tunnels, which are cut 
through the solid rock at the entrance of Peekskill, extend four 
hundred and fifty feet. It is a work of marvellous and hercu- 
lean labor. About a mile beyond is Peekskill, opposite which 
is Caldwell's Landing, situate at the base of the Dunderberg, 
or Thunder Mountain. We have now fairly entered the High- 
lands. In consequence of the sinuous course of the river, nar- 
rowed as it is on either side by these impending rocks, causing 
the current to run with great rapidity, it is usually called the 
"Horse Race." There are several curious legendary tales of 
the early Dutch settlers belonging to this spot. Among others 
allusion' may be made to that of the storm ship, recorded in 
Irving's "Bracebridge Hall." In the golden days of Wouter 
von Twiller, otherwise called the doubtful, the quiet people of 
the Manhattoes were thrown into the greatest constern.ation by 
the appearance of a ship which was seen during a tremendous 
storm, to enter the bay and pass up the Hudson as far as the 
Highlands, when it suddenly vanished over the hills. But al- 
though it was distinctly seen by the numerous bystanders, who 
repeatedly hailed her, and notwithstanding a salute was fired 




PRISONERS QUARRYING AT SL\{; SI.NG 



from the garrison by Hans van Pelt, no effect was proJuccd. 
The shot was absolutely seen to pass throusfh the vessel, and 
in vain did tlioy endeavor to board her; the ship witli her crew 
eluded their best etlbrfs, and finally disajipeared over the High- 
lands. This very extraordinary spectaelo thre«' the worthy 
Governor into a haze of the profoundcst doubt->, which at 
lengtli, liDwever, evaporated with the finncs ot'nnraerous pipes, 
and finally resolved into the belief of the ship having been 
that of tlie ghost of Hendriek Iludsim and liis erew. For a 
long time the phantom ship was seen to revisit the same spots 
to the terrible diseomfiture of the redoubtable Duteh, and dis- 
appear as at first, among the Highlands, where it is believed, 
the mysterious voyagers held their ghostly gambols. 

Two miles beyond, a beautiful little cascade comes foaming 
and tumbling down the rocks, nearly one hundred feet, called 
the Buttermilk Falls, from their whiteness. Several large flour 
mills are supplied by these waters. Opposite to these, is Bev- 
erlj' House, where Arnold met Andre, and concocted his 
treasonable plans. 

West Point is, to every lover of his country, hallowed 
ground. It is consecrated by cherished memories of the heroic 
patriotism of our forefathers. Some of the severest struggles 
in our war of Independence took place in this vicinity: and 
these grand old rocks once reverberated with the booming of 
cannon and the clash of arms. The rocky fostnesses Ihen 
served, in part, for impregnable fortresses; the clustered foliage 
and the bright blue heavens above, fired the brave hearts fif 
the warriors with hopes of victory. Great names, that nnist 
ever live in our country's story, belong to this battle-groimd, 
— the noble virtues of Kosciusko and Lafayette, as well as Ar- 
nold's treachery and Andre's hapless fate. Near the margin of 
the liver, in a retired nook in the clefts, rises a white marble 
shaft, beneath which reposes the great Polish chieftain. 

The following interesting anecdotes of Washington we tran- 
scribe from an admirable work, just published, entitled "Ro- 
mance of the Revolution," comprising personal incidents and 
details of remarkable interest, some of wliicli we do not remcm- 
ber to have met with elsewhere. The incidents we are about 
to relate, occurred at West Point, during the early part of the 
revolutionary struggle. 

"The sua had just passed its meridian, when an American 
officer was seen slowly wending his way along one of the un- 
frequented roads up "the mountains, in the vicinity of West 
Point, where the American army was then stationed. The of- 
ficer w;is unaccompanied, and as the horse with slow and meas- 
ured tread moved along the road, with the slackened rein hang- 



ing loose upon his neck, liis rider seemed buried iu a deep rev- 
erie. The scene around w as one of peculiar beauty ; the far 
mountains heaped up, one above another, against the horizon, 
and at his feet the lludscm swcejiing on with a sweet and placid 
look. But the thoughts of the traveller were turned inward, 
and his eyes heeded not the pageant before them, but seemed 
rather to be reading the dark and obscure future, or Irving to 
penetrate the mysteries which surrounded the present. His 
t houghts, however, were apparently undisturbed, but only solemn 
and deep. It \\ould ha\e been impossible for any one to have 
looked upon his calm, thoughtful brow, the majestic, but benev- 
olent expres.sion of his countenance, the firm contour, though 
sweet compression of his lips, the mild, penetrating glance of 
his eye, and the noble proportions of his frame, without detect- 
ing the presence of the great Washisg ton. Presently he drew 
up before a mansion on the road, dismounted, and ap])roached 
the house. Almost immediately a door was throwii open, and 
an aged gentleman in a civilian's dress, rushed forth and greet- 
ed the comer with many, seemingly, earnest protestations of 
welcome. 

The family in which Washington, on this occasion, was re- 
ceived, was one he had frequently been in the habit of visiting. 
During the stay of the army at West Point, he often 
dhied with its members, and with its head he had at first repo- 
sed confidence and friendship. But many suspicions of his 
honesty were whispered about, and in some quarters he was 
openly accused of treachery to the American cause. To these 
suspicions Washington would not heed, but liaving been invi- 
ted to dine with him on a certain day and at a certain hour, and 
this invitation being pressed with so much over-earnestness, 
and accompanied with an insinuation, that liis ajipearance with 
a guard was an indication of his want of confidence in his 
friend's fidelity, and urged to give a jiroof of his umiiangi'd be- 
lief in his honesty, by coming unattended to partake with him 
a private dinner, Washington's susi)ieions at last became fully 
aroused, and he resolved, by accepting the invitation, to prove 
at once the truth or falsehood of the sus])icions entertained 
against him. It was to fulfil tliis engagement that Washing- 
ton, on the occasion we have described, proceeded to the resi- 
dence of his suspected friend. 

The time ajipointcd for the dinner was two o'clock, but it 
was not later than one when Washington dismounted at the 
door of his host. He had an especial object in this early arri- 
val. The host proposed to occupy the interim before dinner, 
by a walk on the piazza. Here conversation occupied the time, 
and it soon became apparent to the chief that his host's manner 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



11 



was exceedingly nervous and excitable. Without revealing 
this knowledge, Washington continued the discourse, and, while 
he carefully avoided betraying his suspicions, he skillfully led 
the conversations to such subjects, that would be most likely 
to cause his companion to betray his agitation. So poor an 
actor was he, and so often was his conscience probed by the ap- 
parently innocent remarks of the commander-in-chief, that his 
nervousness of manner became so marked as to give the great- 
est pain to Washington, at this proof of the intidelity of one 
on whom he had once reposed unlimited confidence. The 
American commander in commenting upon the difti^rent beau- 
ties of the landscape that surrounded them, pointed out the 
spot where lay the encampment of the enemy, at the same tune 
remarking upon the extraordinary lack of principle that could 
induce men of American birth to forego the interest.s of their 
country, and every consideration of holy patriotism, to enrol 
themselves among their country's invaders for no other tempta- 
tion than a little glittering gold. Before the penetrating look 
which Washington tixed upon him while making these remarks, 
the guilty traitor quailed, but at this juncture, he was relieved 
by the sound of approaching horses, and as both guest and host 
turned to the direction whence the sound proceeded, a com- 
pany of dragoons in British uniforms appeared upon the brow 
of the hill, and galloping rapidly along the road towards the 
house. 

"Bless me, sir!" exclaimed Washington; "what cavalry are 
these approaching the house t" 

"A party of British light horse," rejoined his trembling host, 
"who mean no harm, but are merely sent for my protection!" 

"British horse sent here while I am your guest!" said Wash- 
ington with startling sternness, as he turned upon his host vnih 
an air of command that awed and caused to quail the little soul 
of the betrayer before the mighty spirit that he had aroused. 
"What does this mean, sir?" continued Washington, as a terri- 
ble look gathered upon his brow. 

By this time the troops had arrived, and they were seen dis- 
mounting from theu- horses. This gave courage to the tremb- 
ling traitor. 

"General," said he, approaching his guest, "General, you are' 
my prisoner." 

"I believe not," replied Wa.shington, his manner having re- 
gained its former calmness, "but, sir, I know that you are mine! 
Otiicer arrest tlili trnitor!" 



In bewildering consternation the treacherous hypocrite looked 
from Washington to the men ; the one an American officer, and 
the others seeuiingly British soldiers. But the puzzle was 
soon solved. Washington had ordered a company of Ameri- 
cans to disguise themselves as British cavalry, and to arrive at 
the mansion designated, at a quarter before two, by which means 
he would be enabled to discover the innocence or guilt of the 
suspected person. The issue proved his suspicions were well 
founded, and the mode he adopted for detecting the plot admi- 
I'ably displaytul his great sagacity. The false friend was h,anded 
over to the keeping of the soldiers, and conducted to the Amer- 
ican camp as a piisoner. He afterwards confessed that he had 
been offered a large sum to betray Washington into the hands 
of the English : :mA at the hour of two, a party of British horse 
would have surrotmded the house, and captured the American 
chief. At first, Washington meditated making a severe exam- 
ple of the man, but he yielded to the earnest solicitations of his 
family, and pardoned him. 

The ahn of the tr-iitor Arnold w.as not confined to the sur- 
render of West Point alone. He had projected the betrayal, 
into the hands of Sir Henry Clinton, of Washington himself, 
Laf^iyetfe, and of the princip,al staff officers. A trifling circum- 
stance caused its failure. Arnold had invited Washington to 
dine with him the very morning the plot was discovered, and 
Washington was only prevented from being present by the 
urgent request made to him by an old officer, near to ^\hose 
station he p.assed, th.at he would remain the night with him; 
and next morning inspect some works in the neighborhood. 
Washington, accordingly, dispatched an aid from his suite to 
make excuses to Arnold. The messenger arrived at West 
Point the next morning, and breakfasted with Arnold. During 
the repast, a letter was received, the superscription of which 
no sooner met the eyes of Arnold, than he hurried from the 
table; and, in a few minutes afterwards, was on his way to 
New York. This letter contained information of the arrest of 
Andre. In the meantime, Wa.shington, with his staff, was seated 
at the table of the officer whose in\itation had delayed the visit 
to West Point, when a -despatch was brought to the chief 
which he opened, read, and laid do'SATi ^nthout comment. No 
alteration was visible in his countenance, but he remained per- 
fectly silent. After some minutes, he beckoned to Lafayette, 
arose from the table, and followed by the young Frenchman, 
proceeded to an inner apaitment, where ho placed the fatal 




ROCKLAND LAKE. 



12 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 




OSCAWANA TUNNEL 

despatch, wiiich revealed tlie jiL-rfidy of Gen. Arnold in his 
hands, and llien giving way to an uncontrollaljle burst of feel- 
ing, — fell on his friend's neek and wept aloud. "I believe." 
said Lafayette, " this was the only occasion throughout that 
long and sometimes hopeless struggle, that Washington ever 
gave way, even for a moment, under a reverse of fortune; and, 
p<:rhaps, I was the only human befng who over witnessed in 
him an exhibition of feeling so foreign to his temperament. 
As it was, he recovered himself before I had perused the com- 
munication that gave rise to his emotion; and when we returned 
to his staff, not a trace remained on his countenance either of 
grief or despondency." So true it is, that of all human reverses, 
the betrayal of confidence on the part of one who has been im- 
plicitly trusted, is, to a generous nature, the hardest and bitter- 
est to bear." 

West Pomt is a central spot, for the eye is greeted on every 
side by an ever-varying succession of beauties. On cither bank 
m.ijestic mountains rear their lofty crests — those of Fishkill, 
Peekskill, Beacon Hill, and Anthony's Nose; while the blue 
Catsklll range bounds the dim horizon in the North. 

'Tis sweet to linger here at close of day, 
While shadows lengthen on the mountain side ; 
Tlie sunbeams start from peak to peak away, 
And white sails gleam along the dusky sky. 

The christening of "Anthony's Nose,'' is described by 
Washington Ir\ing in the story of the Dutch govcrnor'.s fii-st 
voyage up the Hudson, as follows: — "Just at this momejif, the 
illustrious sun, breaking in all his splendor from behind one of 
the high cliffs of the Highlands, did dart one of hi.s most po- 
tent beams full upon the refulgent nose of the sounder of brass, 
the reflection of which shot straightway down hLssing hot into' 
llie water and killed a mighty sturgeon that was sporting be- 
side the vessel! When this astonishing miracle came to be 
made known to Peter Stuyvcsant, ("the governor,) he, as may 
be well supposed, marvelled exceedingly: and as a monument 
thereof, gave the name of Anthony's Nose to a stout promon- 
tory in the neighborhood, and it has continued to be called 
Anthony's Nose ever since." From here to Fort iMont<romery 
which is now in ruins, on the opposite side, a huge bo'om and 
chain was extended dui-ing the Revolutionary War, which cost 
about seventy thousand pounds sterling, it was partly des- 
troyed by Gen. Sir Henry Clinton, in October, 1777. Had we 
space to dilate upon such matters, the legendary lore with 
which poetry and romance have invested ihese hoary rocks, 
might prove a ])leasing theme to the lover of the wild and won- 
derful. 



What though no cloister grey nor iviod column 
Along these cliffs their sombre ruins rear! 

What though no fro\¥ning tower nor temple solemn 
Of tyrants tell of superstition here, — 

There's not a verdant glade nor mountain hoary, 

Ijut treasures up the memories of Freedom's story. 

The Highlands of the Hudson, like the Catskill range, evince 
traces of the warlike sons of the forest, when they held undis- 
puted sway. Here have also been discovered traces of extinct 
animals of gigantic size — the fossil remains of Matumoths. 
What a new and strangi; [ihase in human history would be sup- 
plied, had the red men l)e(iueathcd to us their "ehroiueles; but 
they have vanished, and have left us to conjecture for the most 
part, the details of their life story. Had we those records, it 
is to be feared they would be written in blood, and though 
they might charm some with their chivalry and heroism, yet it 
is better that the peaceful silence which now is undisturbed, 
.save by the jilashing of the steamer's paddle, or the shriek of 
the locomotive should echo from these hills, rather Ihan the 
fierce war-whoop of the sanguinary savage. There is a f;isci- 
nalion about these rocky heights which holds us spell-bound, 
;md which the pen strives in vain adequately to describe. 

The moon looks down on old Crow Nest, 
She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast, 
And seems his huge grey form to throw 
lu a silver cone on the wave below ; 
His sides are broken by spots of shade, 
By the walnut boughs and the eedar made, 
And through their clustering branches dark 
Glimmers and dies the finfly's spark, — 
Like starry twinklus that momently break 
Through the mists of the gathering tempest rack. 

The stars are on the moving stream, 

And fling, as its ripples gently flow, 

A burnished length of wavy beam. 

In an eel-liko, spiral line below. 

The windi are whist, and the owl is still, 

The bat in the shelry rock is hid ; 

And naught is heard on the lonely liill * 

But the cricket's chirp and the answer shrill 

Of the gauze-winged katy-did ; 

And the plaints of the mourning whip-poor-wiD 

Who mourns unseen, and cea-^eless sino^ 

Ever a note of wail and woe, 

Till morning spreads her rosy wings. 

And earth and skies in her glances glow. 

'T is the hour of fairy ban and s|>ell ; 

The v\'ood-tiek h.is kept the minutes well; 

He has counted them all with click and stroka, 

Deep in the heart of the mountain oak ; 

And he has awakened the sentry-elve, 

Who sleeps with him in the haunted tree, 

To bid him ring the hour of twelve, 

And call the fays to their I'evclry. 

In addition to its magnificent views us seen fi'om it.s grand am 
phithcaire of tenaeed rocks, with its steep declivities, shelvini 
precipitously to the edge of the waters, its luxuriant folian-e 
and seething cascades,— here are to be seen the Military AciS- 
emy. the fine old ruin of Fort Putnam, and the picturesque lit- 
tle church of the Holy Sacraments, which stands on the edge 
of an emerald slo])e, half hidden among the frees. This edifice 
was built by Weir, the artist, who resides here. Lossing, in 
his admirable "Field Book of the Revolution," has devoted 
much curious research touching the historical remains of this 
•spot. Instead of going into details about the military est.tb- 
lishmenta at West Point, we prefer to cite a passaire from the 
author. "In the centre of the court of the Artillery Ltbora- 
tory, IS a group of great interest, consisting of a large brass 
mortar, mounted, which was taken from the English whca 



-Jl 



Wayne captured Stony Point; two small brass mortars taken 
from Burgoyne at Saratoga, and a portion of the famous chain 
whieli the Americans stretched across the river at West Point 
to obstruct the passage of the vessels of the enemy. The links 
are made of iron bars two and a half inches square, avcraginjj 
in length a little over two feet, and weigh about one hundred 
and forty pounds each. The chain was stretched across the 
river at the narrowest point between the rocks just below the 
steamboat landing and Constitution Island, opposite. It was 
fixed to huge blocks on each shore, and under tlie cover of bat- 
teries on both sides of the river. The remains of these are 
still visible." 

There is a curious story told of a soldier of Fort Putnam, 
exemplifying the effects of fear upon the human frame in a re- 
markable manner. "On the face of one of the precipitous cliffs 
in the neighborhood, an eagle had built her nest, and a party 
from the garrison undertook to rob her of her young. To ef- 
fect this, they suspended one of their comr.adcs from the top 
of the rock by a rope tied abouL his waist, lowering Iiim down 
until he came within reach of the prize. While thus hanging 
in raid-air, the mother bird, in defence of her brood, made a 
furious attack upon him, and he, to defend himself, used his 
hanger, when, making an unlucky stroke, he severed two out 
of three of the strands of the rope by which he was suspended, 
and the remaining one began rapidly to untwist; in this horri- 
ble situation, expecting every moment to be dashd to pieces, 
and wild with terror, he called lustily upon his comrades for 
succor. They had barely time to haul him in over the preci- 
pice ere it had been too late. The excessive agony of fear he 
had endured, caused his hair to change from a dark color to a 
pure white in less than twenty-four hours." Opposite to West 
Point is the rock called the Sugarloaf Jlountain, to the North 
of which lies the town of Cold Spring, celebrated for its iron 
foundries. The scenery adjacent is highly picturesque; it 
abounds with rural spots of great beauty. One of the favorite 
resorts of visitors is a rocky glen, called Indian Falls. These 
Falls are entirely hid from the view by the thick foliage, until 
you come directly upon them. They are situated about a 
mile from Cold Spring. 

On the opposite -bank of the river is "Shadyside" or '-Ever- 
shade," the present residence of N. P. Willis, and to form the trio 
of authorship in this vicinity, we may mention, that on the isl- 
and between West Point and Cold Spring, is the rural home 
of Miss Warner, the popular .".uthoress of "The Wide. Wide 
World," and '-Q'.iecchv." 



UuBEKCLtFF, closc by, is the country seat of Gen. George P. 
Monis, whose lyrics have attained such wide celebrity. The 
.selection of a spot of such rare beauty, is of itself an indication 
of poetic taste, and well suited to awaken a poet's raptures. 
North of this is Butter Mill, one thousand live hundred and 
twenty-nine feet in Insight, and the last of the mountain range 
on the West. At tlie tirst of it may be seen the piece of rock 
which was rolled from the top in 1778 by a party of soldiers 
under General Putnam. 

On the opposite shore are Bull Hill and BrEAKKECK Hn-L, 
also mountains of great elevation, greater than any, with the 
exception of High Peak, which is one thousand sLx hundred 
and eighty-nine feet high. The former of these, as seen from a 
particular situation, shows the profile of a man's face, and is 
called the Turk's Face. These terminate the range of High- 
lands on the river. Polopell's Island, situated in the middle 
of the river at this place, is said to contiiin numerous snakes, 
opposite to which are two small villages, called CoRrrwALL and 
Canterurt. The scenery here presents an agi-eeable contrast. 
On the West stands New Windsor, and on the East Fishkill 
with il.s factories and country seats, together with a view of 
the Hudson for many miles above. The Fishkill Mountains 
are very grand. The Grand Sachem is one thousand six hund- 
red and eighty-five feet in height. Large cotton factories are 
located here, giving employment to threq hundred persons. The 
deep valley, with its cascades and rap Ids, the village with its 
neat white dwellings, extensive fa(.iories and ornamental 
churches, overhung by the grand old mountain, render it an 
object of attraction and interest to the traveller. Again, 
facing Fishkill, the beautiful village of Nevvuurgh, situated on 
a steep acclivity, has a very imposing aspect. A quarter of a 
mile South of the \illage, is an old stone building called IIas- 
RRoncK House, in which Washington wrote his celebrated New- 
burgh Letters. 

At New Windsor, two miles South of Newburgh, Gen. Wash- 
ington resided during most of the winter of 1776. The house 
is a low, old fashioned building, a few yards back of the south 
dock, in October, 1777, New Windsor was the scene of great 
commotion. The possession of the fortresses was fiercely dis- 
puted by the contending parties. Three miles westward may be 
seen a picturesque old mansion, built in 1775, once the head- 
quarters of Generals Greene and Knox. 

Newburgh was originally settled by emigrants from Palatine, 
in 1708. It is built on the declivity of a hill, and presents an 
imposing aspect as .seen from the river. Hasbrouelc House, 




RAILROAD RUNNING THROUGH THE WOODS BETWEEN CROCKER'S LANDING AND VERPLANK. 



u 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 




Jijfe: 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



15 



the ivell-known head-quarters of Gen. Washington, as 
well as the camp-ground, may be seen a little to the 
South of the town. 

"The traveller who wishes to carry away a distinct 
impression of this section of the Hudson," writes Free- 
man Hunt, in his "Letters about the Hudson," "will 
not fiiil to visit Beacon Hill, opposite Newburgh, tlie 
last summit of the Highlands of any altitude, as the 
range dips off to the north-east. An hour's ride on 
liorseback from Fishldll landing, partly through the Urn- 
arable lands of Dutchess, and partly through the luxu- 
riant overhanging foliage of the mountain road, brings 
you to the summit. A few occasional glimpses through 
the tufts of trees, with now and then a broader opening 
at some curve of the wood, beautiful though they be, 
give you but a slight foretaste of tlie magnificent coup 
(Vail in reserve for you upon the summit. This sum- 
mit — a rounded peak of the primitive granite, bare, or 
only tufted here and there with a few groups of small 
trees, with no habitations or traces of cultivation upon 
it, atlbrds a view of a landscape, at once one of the grand- 
est and most beautiful that can be found in the Union. 
Rising as it does, rather abruptly from the plain on the 
East bank, the spectator, gazing from its height upon 
the scene before him to the West and North, is placed 
as it were upon the boundary — the frame or setting of a mag- 
nificent panorama — which is continued by the Highlands in the 
South, the hills of the Shawangunk range in the West, and the 
Catskills in the North, quite round the picture. In this fine 
setting — high, rugged, and frowning on the range where you 
stand — softer, but still strongly marked as it breaks against 
the horizon opposite you — faint, indefinable, and shadowy, 
where it melts in the clear blue sky to the northward — in this 
fine setting, the materials of the beautiful and picturesque are 
arranged with all the grandeur, the softness, and beauty of de- 
tail, that the most fastidious connoisseur of fine scenery can de- 
sire. Before you lies the Hudson, swollen into a lovely ex- 
panse or bay of ten miles iu length — afterwards narrowmg, 
and meandering away to the North, until it is lost to the eye 
in the distance — sprinkled through its whole course wdth the 
white sails of the numberless vessels that float upon its sur- 
face. Sloping away from its banks, rise the fine cultivated lands 
of the rich old river counties — the clustered villages — the neat 
farm-houses, 

" and hamlets low, 
With whose thick orebard-blooms the soft winds play," 

and its elegant nllas gleaming through the tufts of foliage that 
surround them. The soft green of the meadows — the deeper 
tints of the forest masses, scattered here and there through 
the cultivated lands — the golden hue of the grain fields in mid- 
summer — and the sparkling histre of the river and the two 
small lakes West of Newburgh, which shine like sheets of sil- 
ver in the rays of the declining sun — all these, with a thousand 
variations hi the grouping of the details, produced by the art 
of man in a tract of country which yields a luxuriance of vege- 
tation to correspond with its noble river and fine hills — form a 
picture, such as we may suppose greeted the eyes of Moses 
when he looked down upon the promised land. 

' 'Mid the dark rooks that watch hia bed, 
Glitters the mighty Hudson spread 
Unrippled, save by drops that fall 
From shrubs that fringe his mountain wall.' 

"The valley before us is also interesting to those who are 
fond of studying the wonderful mutations and revolutions that 
have taken place upon the face of our continent, as being the 
supposed bed of a lake of large dimensions, the southern boun- 
dary of which was once the Highlands, through which the mass 
of waters ha\ing burst, found their way to the ocean, forming 
the present channel of the river. Besides the proofs which the 
man of science finds in the formation of tliis valley — the various 
deposites — the organized remains — and the abruptly waved 
rolling surface in many places — it is remarkable how the idea 
of its having been the bed of an original lake, impresses itself 
upon even a general observer placed upon Beacon Hill. The 
very chain of mountains which meet the horizon, looking in 
every direction from this point, were, undoubtedly, the banks 
of this vast body of water — the abrupt, torn passage through 




OPENING OF THE HIGHLANDS NEAR PEEKSKILL. 



the hills below bearing witness to a sudden convulsion — the 
rounded boulders of stone scattered over the level plains, and 
those plains themselves having in their soils all the character- 
istics of a deposited surface — all powerfully serve to the con- 
viction, that you are looking upon the dry bed of a lake of no- 
ble dimensions. 

"Beacon Hill was a station for the display of bonfires in the 
revolution, which, from its elevated position, denoted the move- 
ments of the enemy to the inhabitants for a great distance 
through the surrounding counties." 

Peekskill is about forty-five miles from New York, and from 
its pleasant and healthy location, together with its proximity 
to the city of New York, has become a place of considerable 
mercantile importance. Two miles from this village stands the 
dwelling occupied by Gen. Washington, while the American 
army were encamped in Peekskill. The majestic tree near the 
Academy, on which Strang was hung for some misdemeanor, 
still remains; and here, too, is the place where Palmer, an 
American tory, was executed, by order of Gen. Putnam, whose 
memorable reply to Gov. Tryon, who wrote for his release, 
threatening vengeance if he were executed, deserves an endu- 
ring record. It briefly — emphatically unfolds the true charac- 
ter of that distinguished hero. The note runs thus: 

"Sir — Nathan Palmer, a Lieutenant in your service, was ta- 
ken in my camp as a spy; he was condemned as a spy; and 
you may rest assured, sir, he shall be hanged as a spy. I have 
the honor to be, &c. Israel Putnam." 

"P. S. — Afternoon. He is hanged." 

Not the threats of the British Governor, or the entreaties of 
Palmer's wife, could change the purpose of the determined 
General. An old inhabitant states that the man who led the 
spy, Palmer, to the gallows, afterwards married his widow. 

There is a traditionary circumstance which occurred at Peeks- 
kill, or rather Courtland, of which Peekskill is the principal 
village, that placed iMajor Andre in the path of the captors. 
"It seems," says Jlr. R. E. Ward, "that in the autumn of 1780, 
a farmer of this village was making cider, having been for a 
few days released from his country's service to follow his agri- 
cultural pursuits. The mill in wliich he was at work was sit^ 
uated on the East bank of the Hudson, near that part of Hav- 
erstraw Bay, called "Jf other's Lap." While busily employed 
in the manufacture of his cider, two young men, Sherwood and 
Peterson, with their muskets, (the usual accompaniment in 
those days,) approached the farmer, and after passing the usual 
salutations, and refreshing themselves with the new cider, seated 
themselves upon a log that lay near tlie mill The farmer ob- 
serving them in close conversation, and looking very intently 
on some distant object, asked them the cause of their alarm 
and anxiety. 

"'Hush,' says Sherwood, speaking low; 'the red coats are 
about us.' 

"' Wherel' a.sked the farmer, in a whisper. 

"Yonder, yonder, just within the Lap,' answered Peterson, 
pointing at the same time to a spot where was an English gun- 




toat,VMth twenty-four men layin? upon their oars. 'Return 
to your mill, he added; and addressin^r himself to Sherwood, 
•we ^vill crawl to the bank of the river and give the red enats 
a shot.' ^ 

"Peterson and Sherwood drew near the martriii of the Hud- 
son, and placed themselves behind a large rock, which was di- 
rectly between them and the gun-boat. Here, after reconnoit- 
enng the situation of the gun-boat, and examining their gun.s, 
they fired upon the crew, and killed two persons. The soldiers 
that manned the gun-boat belonged to the British sloop-of-war 
Vulture, which lay at anchor in the Hudson, off Teller's Point 
f^ot expecting to meet with the enemy, they had prepared 
themselves with no weapons of attack 'or ilefence, except a 



blunderbuss. This they hastily fired towards the .-.hore. but 
without giving it any particular dircctiuiv and of coins,- u ithoii; 
producing any effect. Quickly perceiving that all their ( flbrt.s 
to defend themselves must be unavailing, as they were contind- 
ing with a hidden foe, they put their boat about as speedily as 
possible, .and proceeded towards the Vulture, presuming that 
its hea\y arms would secure to them a far better protection 
from rebel outrage than tlieir own small blunderbuss. In pro- 
ceeding back to the Vulture, they kept a proper distance from 
the shore, for the purpose of evading all further annoyance 
from the rebel muskets. The retreat was made good, and a.s 
the sun was just losing himself behind the towering mountains 
that border the Hudson in the vicinity of Haverstraw Bay, the 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



17 





disappointed sailors might have been seen lifting themselves up 
the side of the Vulture. 

•'Peterson and Sherwood remained in their place of conceal- 
ment until some time after the crew of the gun-boat had reached 
their vessel, expecting that a reinforcement might probably be 
sent on shore to reconnoitre. But no movement of the kind 
was made, and they abandoned the rock and rejoined the old 
faimer at the mill. 

"While Sherwood and Peterson wqre informing the farmer 

of the result of the skirmish, a man was observed coming down 

the Ea.st bank of the river, just below Collabergh Landing, and 

cautiously examining everything around him. The stranger 

i had gained the spot nearly opposite where the gun-boat had 



been stationed, before he observed the men at the mill ; upon 
discovering them, he retraced his steps for a few rods, and took 
an easterly course towards Croton River. That man was no 
less a personage than Major Andre, bearing the traitor Arnold's 
despatches to the British General. The gun-boat was to have 
received him at the point where it had been stationed, and con- 
veyed hira on board the Vulture. He had conferred with the 
traitor the evening previous, a few miles below West Point, 
and after all the necessary arrangements had been made, they 
separated, the one for his camp and the other for the Vulture. 
The course of the latter lay along the West bank of the Hud- 
son, about three miles below Caldwell's Landing and opposite 
Verplank's Point, At that point he crossed the river, and fol- 



IL 




MAJOR PAULDING'S MONUMENT. 



lowed its course until he arrived at flic particular .spot in the 
"Lap," where the gun-boat had been stationed to receive liim. 
Ilavinj; heard the firing, and perceiving that the gun-boat had 
been forced or frightened olf, he was compelled to alter liis 
course, and proceed towards the interior of the County of 
Westchester. About eleven o'clock on the evening of that 
day he found himself approaching Crumpond. At that place 
he took lodgings for the night with a Mr. Smith. The ne.xt 
morning, having procured a horse, he started for New York, 
determining to travel the distance by land. He crossed the 
Croton River at Pinesbridge, and at the tune of his capture, 
was passing the Beekman woods, the largest forest in West- 
chester County. 

West Point thus owed its safety, in part, to those who were 
in.strumental in putting Andre iu the way of being captured : 
while, therefore, the proper meed of praise is awarded to 
Paulding, Williams and Van Wart, and monuments erected to 
their memory for the agency they had in his capture, the part 
acted by Sherwood and Peterson, and the agency they had in 
enabling the capture to take place, should not remain 'unhon- 
ored and unsimg.'" 

It should not be forgotten that this is the birth-place of John 
Paulding, the American tarmer, who intercepted Andre, the 
British spy, at Tarrytown, some fifteen miles below. Ilis mon- 
ument is situated about two miles North of the village. It is 
a marble pyramid, fifteen feet high, running to a point, and is 
enclosed in an iron railing about twelve feet square. The main 
inscription is on the South side, and runs thus: 

"Here reposes the mortal remains of 

John Paulding, 

Who died on the 18th day of February, 1818, 

in the 60th year of his age. 

On the morning of the 23d of September, 1780, 

Accompanied by two young farmers of the county of 

Westchester, 

(Whose names will one day be recorded 

on their own deserved monuments,) 

He intercepted the British Spy, Andre. 

Poor himself, 

He disdained to acquire wealth by sacrificing his Countrj'. 

Rejecting the temptation of great rewards, 

He conveyed his prisoner to the American camp, and 

By this act of noble self-denial. 

The treason of Arnold was detected; 

The designs of the enemy baffled; 

West Point and the American Army saved, and these U. S. 

Now by the grace of God free and independent, 

Rescued from imminent peril." 



On the opposite side is written — 

"The Corporation 

of the 

City of New York 

Erect this tomb. 

as a memorial 

Raised to 

Public Gratitude." 

On the East side is a beautiful wreath engraved on the mar- 
ble with the word "Fidelity." 

Dans-Kam!vier Point, on the western shore, presents the form 
of a peninsula. Knickerbocker in his narrative of Governor 
Stuyvesant's passage up the river, says: "Even now I have it 
on the point of my pen to relate how his crew was most hor- 
ribly frightened on g<iing on shore above the Highlands, by a 
gang of merry roystering devils frisking and curveting on a 
huge flat rock which projected into the river, and which is called 
the DuyielPs Daiia-Kammrr to this day." 

The next place of importance is Poughkeep.sie, which is sit- 
uated about midway between New York and Albany, being 
.seventy-four miles from either city. Its settlement by the Dutch 
took place in 1735. Its name is derived from the Indian word 
Apokeepsiyig, signifying .safe harbor. Its present population is 
over ten thousand. There are numerous elegant country seats, 
hotels and public institutions here, also a .spacious reservoir. 
This place is celebrated for its fine ale. There are many very 
beautiful views in the neighborhood. It stands in the centre 
of a rich agricultural district, and presents every variety of sur- 
fiice, with the bold Fishkill Mountains in the distance. It has 
a collegiate institute .situated upon the hill to the North. 
This is an extensive edifice, with excellent appointments, and 
is admirably arranged with every facility for mental, moral 
and physical education. A delightful panorama of all the 
surrounding country is to be seen from this building. I'ough- 
keepsie derives considerable importance from its being the 
shire town of the county of Dutchess, one of (he wealthiest of 
the L^nion in the cultivation of soil, minerals and manufactures. 

About a mile below the village, on the grounds of Henry liv- 
ingston, Esq., is a secluded iiiui romantic cove on the Hudson, 
called "The Stranger's Grave," which received its name from 
the following circumstance. Long before the introduction of 
steamboats on the livcr, and whi-n the entire transportation 
was confined to sloo]^, a foreign vessel, on her way to Albany, 
cast anchor opjwsite this cove. Shortly at'tei- a boat came on 
shore, bearing a dead body, for which a grave was immediately 
prepared in a nook of t'le cove, l)eyond the reach of tide mark. 
The body was silently and sadly interred, and the seamen em- 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



19 



Varked and pursued their course, leaving the wondering spec- 
tators of this scene, to their own surmises. A short time 
elapsed, and a marble tablet was placed at the head of the 
grave. The deceased was a seaman, a native of Denmark, and 
had died of fever. The slab bears many masonic emblems, to 
which order the deceased belonged. 

Hyde Park six miles higher up, originally so called proba- 
bly in honor of Lady Anne Hyde, Dutchess of York, and sub- 
sequently Queen of England, is a very picturesque spot. It 
is surrounded with extensive parks and noble forest trees, and 
includes the view of the green hills of Ulster, and the tower- 
ing summits of the Kaatsbergs, with the" long stretching waters 
of the Hudson. There are numerous country seats in the 
vicinity, among the most interesting are those of the celebrated 
family of the Livingstons, several of which are located along 
these grounds which extend about twenty miles. They are 
derived from a Scotch peerage. The late Edward Li\ingston, 
was an accomplished jurist, whose code of laws drawn up by 
the direction of the state of Louisiana, has gained him the aj)- 
plause of the world. 

Near the village, the " Crum Elbow" creek has a rapid foil, 
and affords power for extensive water-works. Dr. Bard, Judge 
Pendleton, Ilamilton Wilkes, Thomas Williams, and E. Hol- 
brook, Esqs., with several others, possess beautiful mansions 
and estates in this vicinity. 

Pleasant Valley and Salt Point, arc places of much 
resort for their rural beauty, as also Red Mills to the South. 
The estates of Judge Woodward, and Mr. Langdon, stretch 
over miles of country in and about Hyde Park. 

Several little villages on the opposite side of the river, are 
scattered along its banks. New Paltz, Pelham, etc. 

RoNDOUT, on the left bank of the creek of that name, one 
mile from the Hudson, was founded in 1828, by the Delaware 
and Hudson Canal Company, (whose canal commences near 
this village,) and is the great depot of their coal, wliich is 
brought from the termination of their canal to this place by 
steam tow boats. 

Kingston, formerly called Esopus and Wiltwycke, lies upon 
a sandy plain forty feet above Esopus creek, three miles West 
of the landing, where the Albany boats stop. After the taking 
of Forts Montgomery and Clinton, part of the British fleet pas- 
sed up the Hudson to Kingston, where, to his lasting disgrace. 
General Vaughan caused the defenceless town to be burned in 
October, 1777, when great quantities of stores were destroyed. 



Here, however, they heard the (to them) appalling news of the 
capture of Burgoyne. 

In the county of Ulster is a cave three-quarters of a mile in 
length, caused by a stream running under ground. The rock 
which constitutes the roof and sides of the cave, is a dark col- 
ored limestone, containing impressions of shells, calcarious 
spar, &c. At one end there is a fall of water, the depth of 
which has never yet been ascertained. At Rhinebeck, also, 
is a cave, near the Hudson; the entrance of which is narrow, 
but leading to several spacious apartments, aud abounding 
with columns of stalactites, &c. 

Staatsberg and Rhinebeck are two old German settlements 
mentioned in the histories of the province as early as 1650. 
Opposite to the northern point of Magdalen Island is seen the 
mansion that was formerly the residence of Gen. Blontgomery, 
who fell at the storming of Quebec, in 1775. Passing the 
three villages of Glasgow, Saugerties, and Bristol, you 
arrive at the town of Catskill. There is nothing very remark- 
able in this village, although its general aspect is interesting; 
the inhabitants are almost exclusively Dutch. It owes its 
importance to its being the landing j)lace of those who mit 
the Kaalsbergs or Catskill Mountains, distant twelve miles 
from the village, and form a part of the Appalachian range or 
Alleghanies, that extend from Jlaine to Georgia. The most 
interesting route to these mountains is through the Clove, or 
" Cleft Cloof," as the Dutch call it, a deep ravine between two 
ranges of gigantic rocks, covered with pines and firs, through 
which the Catskill Creek flows. The scenery here is pictur- 
esque, wild, and sublime in the highest degree. Following on 
through this mountain pass you at length arrive at a large 
table rock, on which stands the Mountain House, a spacious 
and magnificent Hotel, nearly one hundred and fifty feet in 
length. On approaching this house from the rear, you find 
yourself suddenly on the edge of an immense precipice, with 
the most enchanting picture stretched out before you, that it 
is po-ssible to conceive. A seemingly endless variety of fields 
and forests, farms and cities, waters and islands, is spread out, 
as on a boundless map. Immediately beneath, the silver Hud- 
son, with its little specs of Islands, is seen meandering 
through hill and dale, while the cUstant horizon is skirted by 
the highlands of Connecticut and Massachusetts to the rifht, 
and on the left by the Green Mountains of Vermont. This 
view has been compared by those who have seen both, with 
that from the summit of Vesuvius, over the Bay of Naples and 




FLAT KOCK 'iUiNM'.i.. 



20 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 




GARRISON'S TUNNEL. 

the adjacent coasts; in feature they are unlike, but in eliarac- 
tcr the same. A celebrated European traveller, in speakinnr of 
this delightful spot, confesses she would rather have omitted 
visiting; the Hawk's Nest, the Prairies, the Mississippi, and 
even Niagara itself, than the Catskill Jlountains. 

At sunrise the view is singularly beautiful. As the light 
first bursts over the horizon the whole scone is enveloped with 
a dense white vapor, which, as the sun ascends, is gradually bro- 
ken, and assuming every variety of the most lirilliant hues and 
ftmtastic shapes, passes into higher regions of the atmosphere, 
and finally becomes dissipated altogether. The brilliant land- 
scape then gradually reveals its multifoiin beauties, looking 
like some new creation bursting into birth, or indeed, more 
like enchantment than a reality. These vapors are often seen 
to float over the vast landscape during some days preceding 
r.ain; they rise out of the Mohawk valley and ascending into a 
higher strata of the atmosphere, become condensed into a pal- 
pable cloud, thus disclosing the wonderful operations and chem- 
istry of nature. During a storm the aspect is intensely inter- 
esting; while dark volumes of cloud eclipse all from the view; 
suddenly the electric flash is seen to issue from tlieir midst, 
illuminating the whole scene, and the peals of thunder may be 
hejird beneath, reverberating among the surrounding rocks: 
while .above smiles the clear cloudless sky. Sometimes, how- 
ever, there is a terrific gj-andeur and sublimity about the moun- 
tain storm, when it liowls and .sweeps around the lofty peaks, 
some of which rise to the elevation of nearly four thousand 
feet, as if in furious madness. 

"To stand upon the beetling verge, and see 
Where storm and lightning, from that huge grey wall. 
Have tumbled down vast blocks, and at the base 
Dashed them in fragments, and to l,iy thine ear 
Over the dizzy depth, and hear the Bound 
Of winds, that struggle with the winds below, 
Come up like ocean murmurs." 

A year or two ago a tremendous storm tore up numerous 
lofty pines all over tlie rocky forest. The average state of the 
Thermometer at this elevation is about twenty degrees below 
that of New York. The mountain called Round Top, the 
highest of the range, measures about four thousand feet in 
height. At a short distance from the Hotel may be seen the 
Kauterskill Falls, which leap dowii a perpendicular precipice 
of one hundred and eighty feet, and then glide away through 
a ch.annel it has worn in the rock to a second descent of eighty 
feet. Below this it is lost in the dark ravine bene.ath. Stand- 
ing on the edge of the first ledge of rock, you look into a 
dreary cliasm, covered with dark ivy and ihickest foliage. 
Descending by a circuitous footpath down the rocks, you enter 
an immense natural amphitheatre behind the cascade. The 
effect here is imposing beyond description. High above your 
head projects a magnificent ceiling of smoot'i rock — before 
yon the foaming waters come dashing down, casting the silver 



spray around, while far bcneatli, tlie wild mountain dell, in its 
terrific gloom, contrasts with the clear blue of the vaulted sky 
.above. The scene of tlie inimitable tale of Rip Van Winkle 
is laid in this dell; the indentation of the stone on wliich Ids 
head re])osed for twenty years is shown to visitors, as well as 
the tree which in its growth during that time had lifted his 
gun far above his re.ach. To imbibe the full .spirit of its con- 
ceptions, this amusing relation should be perused in this moun- 
taiii dell and near the indented rock. As you tre.ad these 
mountain passes, the mind is insensibly cariicd back to those 
days of wild rom.ancc, ^^■hen the Indian ranged at v.ill, this 
forest wild. Numerous war instruments, arrows and remains, 
h.ave been found on some of the neighboring mountains. 

[Here we introduce a delightful Indian legend from the genial 
l)en of Washington Irving, which we copy from the '•Home 
Book of ihe Piciuresqe," a magnificent work of Art, publi.shed 
by I'uin.am of this City.] 

"The Catskill, Katskill, or Cat River Mountains, derived 
their n.^me, in the time of the Dutch domination, from the Cat- 
amounts by which they were infested: and which, with the 
bear, the wolf, and the deer, .are still to l)e found in some of 
their most difficult recesses. The interior of these mountains 
is in the highest degree wild and romantic; here are rocky pre- 
cipices mantled with primeval forests; deep gorges walled in 
by beetling clifts, with torrents tumbling as it were from the 
sky: and savage glens rarely trodden excepting by the hunter. 
With all this internal rudeness, the .aspect of these mountains 
towards the Hudson at times is eminently bland and beautiful, 
slojiing down into a country softened by cultivation, and bear- 
ing much of the rich ch.aracter of Italian scenery about the 
.skirts of the Appenines. 

"The Cat.skills form an advanced po.st or lateral spur of the 
great Alleghani.an or Appal.achian system of mountains which 
sweeps through the inteiior of our continent, from south-west 
to north-east, from Alabama to the extremity of Maine, for 
nearly fourteen hundred miles, belting the whole of our original 
confederacy, and rivalling our great system of lakes in extent 
and grandeur. Its vast ramifications comprise a number of 
parallel eh.ains .and lateral groups; such as the Cumberland 
Mount.iins, the Blue Ridge, the Alleghanies, the De.law.are and 
Lehigh, the Highliinds of the Hudson, the Green Jlountains of 
Vermont, and the White Mountains of New Hamp.shire. In 
many of these vast ranges or sierras Nature still reigns in in- 
domitable wildness; their rocky ridges, their rugged (defts and 
defiles, teem with magnificent vegetation. Here are locked up 
mighty forests that have never lieen mvaded by the axe ; deep 
umbrageous valleys where the virgin soil has never been out- 
raged by the plough; briglit streams flowing in nntasked idle- 
ness, unburdened by commerce, unchecked by tlie mill-dam. 
This mountain zone is in fact the great poetical region of our 
country, resisting, like the triljes which once inh.abited it, the 
t.aming hand of cultivation, and maintaining a hallowed ground 
for fancy and the muses. It is a magnificent and all-pervading 
feature, that might have given our country a name, and a poet- 
ical one, had not the all-controlling powers of eommon-pl.ace 
defermincd otherwise. 

"The Catskill Mountains, as I have observed, maintain all the 
internal wildness of the labyrinth of mountiuns with which they 
are connected. Their det>ached position, overlooking a wide 
lowland region, with the m.ajestic Hudson rolling through it, 
has given them a distinct ehar.acter, .and rendered them at all 
times a rallying point for romance .and fable. Sluch of the 
fanciful associations with which they have been clothed m.ay be 
owing to their being peculiarly subject to those beautiful .at- 
mospherical cft'ects which constitute one of the great charms of 
Hudson River scenery. To me they have ever been the tairy 
region of the Hudson. I speak, however, from early impres- 
sions, m.ade in the happy d.ays of boyhood, when all the w'orld 
had a tinge of fairy-land. I sh.all never forget my first view of 
these mountains. It was in the course of a voyage up the 
Hudson in the good old times before steamboats and railroads 
had dii\en all poetry and romance out of travel. A voyage up 
the Hudson in those days was equal to a voyage to Europe at 
present, and cost almost as much time ; but we enjoyed the 
river then — we relished it .as we did our «'ine sip by sip, not, 
as at present, gulping all down at a draught without tasting it. 
My whole voyage up the Hudson was full of wonder and ro- 
mance. I w.Ts a lively boy, somewhat im.aginative, of easy faith, 
and prone to relish everything which partook of the marvellous. 



THF HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



21 



Among the passengers on the sloop was a veteran 1^ Jian trader, 

on his way to the lakes to traffic with the natives. He had 

diseoTered my propensity, and amused himself throughout the 

voyage by telling me Indian legends and grotes(|ue stoi ies about 

i every noted place on the river, such as Spuytcn Devil Creek, 

' the Tappan Sea, the Devil's Dans-Kamnier, and other hobgob- 

i lin places. The Catskill Mountains especially called forth a 

■ host of fimciful traditions. We were all day slowly tiding 

■ along in .sight of them, so that he had full lime to weave his 
: whimsical narratives. In these mountains, he told me, accord- 
I ing to Indian belief, was kept the great treasury of storm and 

■ sunshine for the regi jn of the Hudson. An old squaw spiiit 
I had charge of it, who dwelt on the highest peak of the moun- 
: tain. Here she kept Day and Night shut up in her wigwam, 

■ letting out only one of them at a time. She made new moons 
: every month, and hung them up in the sky, cutting up the old 
; ones into stars. The great Manitou, or master-spirit, employed 
' lier to manufacture clouds; sometimes she wove them out of 
i cobwebs, gossamers, and morning dew, and sent them oil" flake 

after flake, to float in the air and give light summer showers — 
sometimes she would brew up black thunder-storms, and send 
down drenching rains, to swell the streams and sweep cvery- 
' thing away. He had many stories, also, about mischievous 
spirits who infested the mountains in the shape of animals, and 
plaj^ed all kinds of pranks upon Indian hunters, decoying them 
into quagmires and morasses, or to the brinks of torrents and 
precipices. All these were doled out to me as I lay on the 
deck throughout a long summer's day, gazing upon these moun- 
tains, the ever-changing shapes and hues of which appeared to 
realize the magical influences in question, Sotnetimes they 
seemed to approach, at others to recede; during the heat of 
the day they almost melted into a sultry haze; as the day de- 
clined they deepened in tone; their sunimits were brightened 
by the last rays of the sun, and later in the evening their whole 
outline was printed in deep purple against an amber sky. As 
I beheld them thus shifting continually before my eye, and lis- 
tened to the marvellous legends of the trader, a host of fanci- 
ful notions concerning them was conjured in my brain, which 
have haunted it ever since. 

As to the Indian superstitions concerning the treasury of 
storms and sunshine, and the cloud-weaving spirits, they may 
have been suggested by the atmospherical phenomena of these 
mountains, the clouds which gather round their summits, and 
the thousand aerial effects which indicate the changes of 
weather over a great extent of country. They are epitomes of 
our variable climate, and are stamped with all its \icissitudes. 
And here let me say a word in favor of these vicissitudes, which 
are too often made the subject of e.xclusive repining. If they 
annoy us occasionally by cliangea from hot to cold, from wet 



to dry, they give us one of the most beautiful climates in the 
world. They give us the brilliant sunshine of the south of 
Europe with the fresh verdure of the north. They float our 
summer sky with clouds of gorgeous tints or fleecy whiteness, 
and send down cooling showers to refresh the panting earth 
and keep it green. Our seasons are all poetical; the phenom- 
na of our heavens are full of sublimity and beauty. Winter 
with us has none of its proverbial gloom. It may have its 
howling winds, and thrilling frosts, and whirling snow-storms; 
but it has also its long intervals of cloudless sunshine, when 
the snow-clad earth gives redoubled brightness to the day; 
when at night the stars beam with intensest lustre, or the 
moon floods the whole landscape with her most limpid radiance; 
and then the joyous outbreak of our spring, bursting at once 
into leaf and blossom, redundant \\ith vegetation, and vocifer- 
ous with life! — and the splendors of our summer — its morning 
voluptuousness and evening glory — its airy palaces of sun-gilt 
clouds piled up in a deep azure sky; and its gusts of tempests 
of almost tropical grandeur, when the forked lightning and the 
bellowing thunder volley from the battlements of heaven and 
shake the sultry atmosphere — and the sublime melancholy of 
our autumn, magnificent m its decay, witliering down the pomp 
and pride of a woodland country, yet reflecting back from its 
yellow forests the golden serenity of the sky — sm-ely we may 
say that in our climate "the heavens declare' the glory of God, 
and the firmament showeth forth his handiwork: day unto day 
uttereth speech; and night unto night showeth knowledge." 

"A word more concerning the Catskills. It is not the 
Indians only to whom they have been a kind of wonder-land. 
In the early times of the Dutch dynasty we find them themes 
of golden speculation among even the sages of New Amster- 
dam. During the administration of Wilhelmus Kieft there 
was a meeting between the Director of the New Netherlands 
and the chiefs of the Mohawk nation, to conclude a treaty of 
peace. On this occasion the Director was accompanied by 
Mjmheer Adriacn Van dcr Donk, Doctor of Laws, and subse- 
quently historian of the colony. The Indian chiefs, as usual, 
painted and decorated themselves on the ceremony. One of 
them in so doing made use of a pigment, the weight and shin- 
ing appearance of which attracted the notice of Kieft and his 
learned companion, who suspected it to be ore. They pro- 
cured a lump of it, and took it back with them to New Amster- 
dam. Here it was submitted to the inspection of lohannes De 
la Montague, an eminent Huguenot doctor of medicine, one of 
the counsellors of the New Netherlands. The supposed ore 
was forthwith put in a crucible and assayed, and to the great 
exultation of the junto yielded two pieces of gold, worth about 
three guilders. This golden discovery was kept a profound 
secret. As soon as the treaty of peace was adjusted with the 




WEST POI.NT ACADEM\-. 



22 



TUB HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 




CADET,— WEST POINT. 

Mohawks, Williani Kioft sent a trusty officer and .1 party of 
men under fruidanee of an Indian, who undertook to conduct 
them to the place where the ore had hcen i,"ound. We have no 
account of this jrold-hunting expedilinn, nor of its w hcrabouts, 
exeeptin;:; tliat it was somewhere on tlie Catskill ^fountains. 
The exploring- party brought back a bucketfuU of ore. Like 
the foi'Uier specimen it w'as submitted to the crucible of De la 
Montagnc, and was orjually productive of gold. All tliis we 
have on the authority of Doctor Van der Donk, who was an 
eye-witness of the |)rocess and its result, and records the whole 
in his description of the New Netherlands. 

"William Kieft now despatched a confidential agent, one 
Arent Corsen, to convey a sackful of the precious ore to Hol- 
land. Corscn embarked at New Haven in a British vessel 
bound to England, whence he was to cross to Rotterdam. The 
ship set sail about Christmas, but never reached her port. All 
on board perished. 

"In l()-t7, when the redoubtable Petrus Stuyvesant took 
command of the New Netherlands, William Kieft embarked, 
on his return to Holland, provided with further specimens of 
the Catskill Jfonntain ore; from which he doubtless indulged 
golden anticipations. A similar fate attended him with that 
which had befallen his agent. The ship in which he hikjj. em- 
barked was east away, and he and his treasures were swal- 
lowed in the waves. 

"Here closes the golden legend of the Catskills; but another 
one of similar import succeeds. In 1 649, about two years after 
the shipwreck of Wilhelnius Kieft, there w'as again rumors of 
precious metal.^ in these mountains. Mynheer Brant Arent 
Van Slechtenhorst, agent of the Patroon of Rensselaersvvyck, 
had purchased in behalf of the Patroon a tract of the Catskill 
lands, and leased it out in farms. A Dutch lass in the house- 
hold of one of the farmers found one day a glittering substance, 
which, on being examined, was pronounced sitver (jre. Brant 
Van Slechtenhorst forthwith sent his son from Rensselaers- 
wyck to explore the mountains in quest of the. suppo.sed mines. 
The young man i)ut up in the farmer's house, which bad 
recently been erected on the margin of a mountain stream. 
Scarcely was he housed when a furious storm burst forth on 
the mountains. The thunders rolled, the lightnings flashed, 
the rain came down in cataracts; the stream was suddenly 
swollen to a furious torrent, thirty feet deep; the farm-house 
and all its contents were swept away, and it was only by dint 
of excellent swinuning that young Slechtenhorst saved his own 
and the lives of bis horses. Shortly after Ibis a feud broke 
out between Peter Stuyvesant and the Patroon of Rensselaers- 



wyck on account of the right and title to the Catskill Mom- 
tains, in the course of which the elder Slechtenhorst was taken 
captive by the Potentate of the New Netherlands, and throvvTi 
into prison at New Amsterdam. 

"We have met with no record of any further attempt to get 
at the treasures of the Catskill; adventurers m.iy liavo been 
discouraged by the ill luck which appeared to attend all who 
meddled with (hem, as if they were under the guardian keep 
of the same spirits or goblins who once haunted the moun- 
tains and ruled ovi'r the weather. 

"That gold and silver ore was actually pnjcured from these 
mountains in days of yore, we have historical evidence to 
prove, and the recorded word of Adriaen Van der Donk, a man 
of weight, who was an eye-witness. If gold and silver were 
once to be found there, they must be there at present. It 
remains to be .seen, in these gold-hunting days, whether the 
quest will be renewed, and some daring adventurer, fired with 
a true Californian spirit, will penetrate the mysteries of these 
mountains and open a golden region on the borders of the 
Hudson." 

The next point of interest is Geiimantovvn, about thirty 
miles below Albany. In 1710 seventy of the Palatines, sent 
out by Qneen Anne, settled on this spot, then part of the Liv- 
ingston manor. In 172.'), pursuant to an arrangement entered 
into between George 1. and the projirietoi', this tract was 
granted to the persons belonging to East Camj>, as the settle- 
ment was called. The settlement first commenced by tbree 
small lodges, named respectively, after the superintendent of 
each, as "Weiser's Dorf," "Kneiskcr's Dorf;" names now fal- 
len into disuse. 

Hudson City is the capitol of Columbia County. It derived 
its name from Hendrick Hudson, who on the 16th of Septem- 
ber, 1609, anchored at this spot, which has since borne his name. 
Some suppose the navigator extended his explorations up the 
river as far as Albany, and even to the Mohawk, but the pre- 
vailing belief inclines to the contrary, and limits his discoveries 
to this location. The basis rock of the precincts is transition 
carboniferous slate, upcm which are imposed several ridges, 
containing secondary limestone, abounding with animal remains. 
The compact portion of the city lies upon argillaceous rnarl, in 
horizontal strata, containing a considerable portion of sulphate 
of magnesia. In front of the principal street is a promontory 
of silecious .slate, projecting into the river in a bold clifl", whose 
summit is more th.nn sixty feet above the surface of the water. 
It has beep foi'med into an agreeable promenade, commanding 
a beautiful view of the river, the town of Athens, and the coun- 
try (m the opposite shore, bounded by the distant Catskills, 
winch blend with the nearer hills of "Rorabuch," or Mount 
Merino; w bile at your feet is seen the Hudson River Railroad, 
winding its way along over either bay, \\ hich sini'onnds the 
jironiontory. 

Travellers passing through the city to Lebanon Springs, 
should not fail to pay a vi^it to Prospect Hill. As you ascend 
on the eastern side, passing through the Burying Ground, you 
instinctively pause as yon enter it, to cast your eye over the 
country beneath. Among objects that attract the gaze, is a 
chaste and beautiful marble monument, \\ hich nuu'ks the spot 
« here sleeps the dust of Lieut. Willl-vm H. Allen, who was 
killed by pirates off the Island of Cuba, while in command 
of the U. S. vessel of war. Alligator. When you arrive at the 
summit of this beautiful eminence, commanded by Becraft 
Mountain, there is a fine view of the river, the Catskill Moun- 
tains, and an extent of country for grandeur and vai iety scarcely 
surpassed in any part of our land. Portions of Massachusetts, 
Vermont, New Hampshire, Connecticut, and Pennsylvania, are 
seen fVom this singularly located hill. It also affords an almost 
entire view of Columbia County. The hill is about two hun- 
dred feet high, rising with a uniform smooth surface, and falls 
olf in the south-east to a low meadow, which divides it from 
the North end of the mountain. 

Pew cities in this country have sent into the arena of public 
life more distinguished men than Hudson, and well may they 
cherish, as they do, with pride, the recollection of their names. 
It is also the birthplace of Gen. Worth, who won iinperish.a- 
ble laurels during the Mexican campaign. 

Passing Athens on the West, and the City of Hudson on 
the East, you arrive in succession at the following small villa- 
ges: — CoLUMBiAviLLE, situated on Kinderhook Creek, (the 
birth-place of ex-President Van Buren,) and the site of .several 



.J) 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



23 



Indian wars with the Dutch. Stockport stands on a high table 
land, about a mile and half wide, descending on the East gently 
to the valley of the Claverack and Kinderhook Creeks, which 
unite near the centre of the to\n). In breaking through the 
high bank of the river, these streams have falls of together 
nearly one hundred and sixty lectin three miles, and this water 
power has given rise to several manufacturing villages. Cox- 
sACKiE, New Baltimore, and Coeymans, all of which are tlour- 
isliing villages. The river here loses its character for boldness, 
numerous small islands intersecting its course, and its beautiful 
green shores rising on each side in gentle acclivities into the 
interior. The channel now begins to be very shoal and narrow. 



About four miles from Albany commence the Overslaugh bars. 
These arc deposites of sand, continually shifting, brought down 
by the spring floods, and often prove a serious impediment to 
navigation. Castle Island is now in view; it is memorable 
as having been the site of the fii-st English settlement in 1614. 
Supposing their insular position would prove a preservation 
from surprise on the part of the Indians, the "pale faces" little 
dreamt of a worse casualty which took place in the overflow- 
ing of the island by the spring freshet. 

Greenbush facing Albany, is worthy of notice, as having 
been a spot devoted to the purposes of military training at the 
time of the war. The camp ground and barracks, recently 



o 
o 

a 

K 

s 

o 





END OF THE HIGHLANDS. 



repaired, are wortti irispectin<j. It is important also as being 
the northern terminus of the Hudson River Railroad ; and the 
western terminus of the Boston and Albany line. 

We now reach the ancient City of Albany — the oldest eity, 
with one exception, that of Jamestown. Va., in the Union; and 
as many, who perform the passage of the Hudson, make this 
the terminus of their trip, we shall loiter about its streets in 
quest of whatever m.iy tempt the curiosity of the \isitor. Al- 
bany being the Capitol of the State of New York, naturally 
merits more than a passing notice; and we shall be excu.sed 
for dilating a little upon its memorabilia. 

Albany, which is built upon an acclivity, as seen from the 
river, presents an impo.sing aspect. It exhibits something of 
an oriental appearance, in consequence of the gilded domes of 
its public buildings, which gle.am in the sun's ray like bur- 
ni-shed gold. This venerable city lias been at various times 
canonically christened, Beverwyck, and Williamstadt, and by 
the Indians it was called "Shaunaugh-ta-da," or once the Pine 
Plains. It was founded by the Dutch in 1623. Some emi- 
grants from Holland, however, settled hcreasearly as 1610. Its 
existing name was given in honor of the Duke of York and Alba- 
ny, on the surrender of the Fort to the English under Col. Car- 
teret in 1664. The march of improvement has left but few re- 
mains of the " olden time" in Albany. Here and there a solitary 
Dutch brick jiouse, with its high peaktd roof and turreted 
gable turned to the street, may however, still be seen. The 
site upon which Fort Orange was erected in 1617, is now occu- 
pied by the Fort Orange Hotel. The Capitol, in State Street, 
is a noble stone edifice, one hundred and fifteen feet in front, 
and is an imposing looking structure and the crowning glory 
of the city. Among other public buildings, the Museum, the 
Academy, Lyceum, Stanwix Hall, and the City Hall, which is 
built of marble, and surmounted by a beautifully gilded dome, 
the only one it is believed in America, are the most important. 
There is also a new State Hall to the North of the City Hall, 
and the new Exchange. The old State House in State Street 
is a building of antique appearance, but not otherwise remark- 
able. Albany contains between twenty and thirty churches, 
some of which are very elegant. Albany has perhaps, more 
than any other city of the United States, witnessed the pomp 
and circumstance of war, from the early contests of the Indians 



and Dutch, down to the war of the revolution. In North Pearl 
Street is .situated the old house in which Lafayette held his 
head-quarters, and which he recognised in his late visit, by the 
ancient and jjeculiar brass knocker on the door, which is .still 
to be seen. In the neighborhood are to be seen Kidd's Cave 
and Stone Ridge, commanding a fine view. A few miles below 
the city, are the Falls of Tivoli, the Falls at Grecnbush, and 
the old Ilarrowgatc Spring. Above Albany is an immense 
sheet of water enclosed by a wall, called the Ba.sin, and which 
is .ibout three-quarters of a mile in length; it is connected 
with the Erie C.inal. 

There are two routes, one \ia Schenectady, the other through 
Troy. The latter, however, includes the most objects of inter- 
est, .and is generally preferred by tourists. The City of Trot 
is situated on a rich alluvial plain extending to the river, and 
is bounded on the East by a range of rising hills. Its houses 
are remarkably neat, and the streets running North and South, 
converge together at the North end of the city, and are crossed 
at right angles by those running in the direction of East and 
West. This forms the head of the river navigation. At This 
city is the celebrated Female Academy, under the charge of 
Mrs. Willard. On the opposite shore stands the United States 
Arsenal, at Gibbonsville; and near to this, also, is the Shaker 
Village. This sect was originated by Anna Lee, a religious 
enthusiast, who w.as born in England some time anterior to the 
Revolutionary War. Although in early life, herself the wife 
of a poor blacksmith, the principal tenet of her creed is abso- 
lute and entire celibacy. Their name indicates their mode of 
worship, which is aceoniijaiiicd by shaking or jumping. They 
profess to have the gift of tongues and miracles, and to live 
apart from the world, in all the stern asceticism of the most 
rigid monastic life. 

Again on the eastern shore, at a distance of three miles, is 
Lansingburgh. a high hill rises abruptly behind the village, 
on which is seen the celebrated Diamond Rock, \\hieh is said to 
emit a brilliant lustre from the reflected rays of the sun. At 
the North end of the Wllage a handsome bridge extends across 
the Hudson to the village of Waterford, which is at the con- 
fluence of the Mohawk and Hudson Rivers. About a mile 
from Waterford, in a south-westerly direction, a bridge crosses 
the Mohawk, and aflbrds a fine view of the Cohoes Falls. The 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



25 




descent of (he rapids is about 
thirty feet, and the perpen- 
dicular fail is forty, and their 
width is about one thousand 
feet. The lofty barrier of 
roclis which confine the 
course of the Moliawk", and 
the roar of the cataract as it 
dashes its silver spray, con- 
trasts vividly «ith the wild 
solitude around, and give to 
the whole scene an aspect 
of sublimity and grandeur. 
An old tradition states tliat 
a chief of the Mohawks, in 
uttemptino; to cross in his 
canoe, embarked too near 
the current of the falls to 
escape their descent. Find- 
ing himself unable to resist 
the influence of the tide 
which was hurrying him rap- 
idly to the brink, wiih 
true Indian heroism he turn- 
ed his canoe into the stream, 
assumed his station at the 
hi-lm, and with his paddle in 
one hand and his bottle in 
the other, sutfcred himself 
to be precipitated over the 
precipice. 

There is a path leading to 
within a few feet of the cas- 
cade, which afiurds a very ]iic- 
turcsque view. Passing Van 
Schaick's Island, and Me- 
chanicsville, you arrive at 
Balston Spa. This pleasant 
village lies in a low valley, 
through the centre of which 
flows a branch of the Kaya- 
derosseras. Ballston Spa 
derives its celebrity from its 
Mineral Spring; the most 
important of these is Sans 
Souci Spring. Tlicre are 
many excellent Boarding 
Houses, Hotels, &c., here. 
The principal ingredients of 
these waters as well as 
tliose of Saratoga consist of 
nuuiate of soda, carbonate 
of soda, carbonate of lime, 
magnesia and iron. About 
six miles from tlie village is 
Ballston Lake, which is five 
miles long and one in width. 
A few years ago, a small 
image of a man, made of 
bone, wi'h garnets for eyes, 
was found near one of Ihese 
.springs, bearing a strong 
resemblance to (hose discov- 
ered in the western mounds 
by Mr. Atwater. The Sar- 
atoga Springs are about 
seven miles distant. Thesi; 
are very numerous and aie 
celebrated for their mcdiei- 
nal properties, and are sent 
all over the world. The 
vilhige contains several Ho- 
tels and handsome eHilices. 
There are many plea>:ant 
drives in the neighbor ho(j<l, 
one of the most deliglilfnl is 
to Hadley Falls, and to Sar- 
atoga Lake, about fourteen 
miles distant. The scenery 



m 



»^ a 



adjacent is hijhly picturesque and romantic. These are tlie 
most fashionable places of resort in the United States during 
.the summer months. A short distance from the town of Sar- 
atoga, is Schuylerville, celebrated as being the spot where Gen. 
Burgoyiie surrendered to the American forces in October, 1777. 
The place of the surrender is marked by the ruins of a small 
entrenchment, called Fort Hardy. The battle-ground on which 
was decided the fate of the British army, lies about eight miles 
further down the river, at a place called Benuis" Heights. The 
two actions which preceded the surrender of the British army 
took place here. The period between the 19th of September 
and the second engagement, which was on the 7th of October, 
was one of intense anxiety to the British. Not a day passed 
without the death of some officer or soldier, shot by the Amer- 
ican scouts and marksmen. And at this moment, when they 
were most of all needed, their Indian allies deserted them, being 
disappointed in the hopes of plunder, as well as by the notice 
which Gen. Burgopie was in honor obliged to take of the cruel 
massacre of Miss McCrea. 

A little to the North of Fort Edward, on the West side of 
the road, the traveller is sho\ni a large pine tree, with a spring 
near its foot, memorable as being the spot where this tragedy 
took place. Miss McCrea was betrothed to Mr. Jones, an 
American refugee who was in Burgoyne's army. Anxious for 
a union with his intended bride, he despatched a party of In- 
dians to escort lier to the British Camp. Against the remon- 
strance of her friends, she committed herself to the charge of 
these Indians. She was placed on horseback, and accompanied 
by her guides as far as the spring in question, where, encoun- 
tering another party of Indians, sent on the same errand, an 
altercation ensued between them as to who should claim the 
promised reward. One drew her, it is affirmed, kneeling and 
imploring, to him; the other seized her by her long dishevelled 
hair and buried his tmuahawk in her brain. This hapless vic- 
tim of their fury and revenge, thus in her bridal habiliments 
horribly butchered, was left bleeding in the woods, wliile her 
scalp only was born off by the horrid monsters, which they ex- 
liibited to her agonized lover. He is said to have survived the 
shock but a short time, and to have died of a broken heart. 
The name of Miss McCrea is inscribed on the tree, witli the 
date, 1777. Her remains were disinterred a few years since, 
and deposited in the church-yard of Sandy Hill. This painful 
event excited the most intense sympathy throughout both the 
contending armies. 

On the 7th of October, as the Royal Army was commeucing 
the action, the i^inericans being in readiness to repulse the at- 
tack, the engagement soon became general, — a tremendous fire 
ensued. After a contest of the most sanguinary kind, which 
lasted a great part of the afternoon, victory was at length deci- 
ded in favor of the American Army, the British leaving many 
of their senior officers wounded or slain upon the field, and sev- 
eral pieces of artillery, retreated. The defeat was signal. Ai-- 
ticles of surrender were signed at Saratoga on the 17th. The 
British, who not long before had advanced in such overwhelm- 
ing numbers, and who had hitherto achieved so much, were 
now conducted to Albany, mournful captives. A ram- 
part, crowned with a rail fence, stretching from the 
foot of Bemus' Heights to the Hudson River, formed 
a part of the American entrenchments. After the bat^ 
tie, a sentinel stationed here, at the edge of the river, 
observed a boat put ashore under a flag of truce, and 
a beautiful lady, with her attendants, ascend the banks. ^ 

This was Lady Harriet Ackland, whose husband was 
wounded and a prisoner in the American camp. With 
a heroism almost unparalleled, she had followed him 
from place to place in the midst of the campaign, and 
now on a stormy night, not knowing into whose hands 
she might fall, she came to ascertain his fate. She 
was escorted with the respect due to lier rank to the 
house which the British army used as their hospital, 
known in the neighborhood as the house where Gen. 
Fraser, a favorite British officer, died, here she recei- 
ved a letter of introduction from General Burgoyne to 
General Gates. Here the Baroness de Reidesel, with 
her three infant children, who had also accompanied 
her husband through all the horrors of war, occupied 
a room. The other rooms of this hospital were filled 
with the wounded. In one an unfortunate soldier, 
lying on a table for the purpose of having one of his 



legs amputated, a camion ball passed through the bouse and car- 
ried away the other. His attendants flying to the cellar for 
safety, left the miserable man to perish; when none dared 
to fetch water from the river, a soldier's wife boldly vciitured 
to the shore, at whom the Americans, out of respect, did not 
fire. For this Iieroic disinterestedness, she was afterwards 
handsomely rewarded. 

Passing Sandy Hill on the route to Lake George, you airive 
at Glen's Falls. These are formed by the waters of the Hud- 
son, which flow in one sheet over the brink of the precipice, 
but are immediately divided by the rocks into three channels. 
The height of these Falls is sixty-three feet, though the water 
flows in^an angular descent of nearly five hundred feet. Below 
the Falls is a long cave in the rocks, extending from one chan- 
nel to the otlicr. There are extensive quarries of black and 
variegated marble in the vicinity. 

Jessot's Falls are about ten miles higher up the Hudson. 
The scenery here is highlv interesting and romantic. The de- 
scent of these Falls, \vliich are perpendicular embrace the 
whole width of the river, which is about one hundred feet. 

Three miles distant is the village of Caldwell, bordered 
on the East by a range of hills, the highest of which, called 
Prospect Hill, commands an extensixe and diversified view of 
the country. Beside this village is Lake George, which, apart 
from the interest of its historical associations, is peculiarly at- 
tractive, and no less so from its beautiful and romantic scenery. 
The whole length of the Ijikc is thirty-six miles. Its waters 
are discharged into Lake Champlain at Ticonderoga by an out- 
let which, at the distance of two miles, falls one hundred and 
eighty feet. This Lake is celebrated for the number of its 
small islands, which is said to equal the number of days in the 
year, and for the transparency of its waters. The border scenery 
is generally mountainovis — some of these mountains measure 
one thou.sand five himdred feet in height. On one of these 
stands Fort CJeorge. Near the southern shore are the ruins of 
an old fortification, called Fort William Henry. Three san- 
guinary engagements took place here in 1755, between the 
English, under Sir William Johnson, and the French, under 
command of Baron Dieskau, In 1757, this Fort contained a 
garrison of three thousand men, under command of Col. Munroe. 
The Marquis de Jlontcalm, after three attempts to besiege the 
fort, reinforced his army to ten thousand men and summoned 
Col. Munroe to surrender, which being refused, a furious attack 
was commenced; after which the English capitulated. The 
terms of capitulation which were honorably defined, were 
shamefully violated by their Indian allies, who massacred the 
whole garrison, excepting a small remnant, who made their 
escape to Fort Edward. This spot was also the scene of em- 
barkation of General Abercrombic, who, in 1758, descended the 
Lake with an army of fifteen thousand men for an attack on 
Ticonderoga. Fort George, also a ruin, stands on an eminence 
a little farther South. This Fort was General Burgo)Tie's de- 
pot for stores. Ten miles from Caldwell, down to the Lake, 
are a range of mountains possessed by a celebrated hunter, as 
a Deer Pasture — vast numbers were taken here annually. 




HYDE PARK. 




TIVOU. 

At CiiESTEit may bo scon a natural biidn^e, and several cav- 
erns, subterranean passaijes and a preci|iice sixty feet liigli. 
On its West side and a little lieyond is Black Jlountain. ineas- 
urinj: two thousand two liiunlred arid twenty feet in height. 
Opposite to the latter, is Halt-way Island. A .short distance 
North of this is some of the finest mountain scenery on the 
continent. The mountains exhibit an undulatin,<|; appearance, 
thickly studded with pines and firs, and interspersed with deep 
and almost impenetrable caverns. Tlie projection of I lie main 
land on th;i West side, i-s called Sabbath liay Point, from its 
being the place on which the En};lisli troops landed on the 
Sabb.ath, duriuLj the French war. It is also the spot on which 
a .sanguinary battle was fought with the Indians, when the 
English having no chance of escape, were all massacred. About 
si.v miles onwai-J, is the celebrated spot where Col. Rogers 
escaped from the Indians during the French war, called Rog- 
ers' Slide. The descent is an angle r)f about twenty-five 
dogi-ees over a tolerably smooth rock, two hundred feet in 
height. The Colonel who had been a great foe to the Indian.s, 
was nearly surrounded by them on the top of the mountain, 
and found no other means of escape, than to slide doVn the 
preci|>iee. It being winter and he having snow shoes on hi.s 
feet, he landtMl safely on the ice. The Indians afterwards saw 
him, but supposing no hum;m being could have made the 
descent, and that lie must of course be supernatural, they con- 
cluded that it was not only useless, but even dangerous to fol- 
low him. On the opposit(? shore stands a rock called Antony's 
Nose, from its singular shape. Al)out two miles beyond is 
Prisoner's Island, so called from its having been the place 
where prisoners were confined during the French war, and 
directly West is Lord Howe's P<iint. where Lord Howe, (the 
brother of the eonunander of the Bii isli forces during the 
Revolutionary War,) landed immediately previous to the battle 
of 'J'i(^)nderoga in which he was killed. About four miles on- 
ward in an easterly direciion is the fort and ruins o( Ticonder- 
oga. This old fort once the scene of so many murderous con- 
flicts between the French and English, and subsequently 
between the English and the American colonist.s, now scarcely 
re'.ains a vestigia of its former self. Some fragments of the 
old walls and parap't.s however, yet remain. The (dace is well 
adapted to natui-al defence, being surrounded on three sides by 
water, and on the fourth by what was formerly a natural and 
almost impassable morass. It is situated on the narrows of 
Lake Champlain, which is here less than a mile in width, and 
near the confluence of the stream which flows from I,ake 
George, or as it h:u been recently called. Lake Horicon. The 
first fortress was erected by the" French a.s early as 1G7.5, in 
order to command the p.ass.age of L,ake George. In 1757 Gen. 
Abercrombic and Lord Howe, with a force of about seven- 
teen thous.ind men, including pro\incial troops under Gen. Put. 
D.am, nuuL' the first attempt to wrest this stronghold from the 
French. The French garrison consisted of about six thousand 
men, including Indians. The British troops attempted to cut 
their way with th /ir swords, oxpo.sed all the while to a direct 
aai murderous fire from the breastwork, which was eight feet 



nigh, lined with artillery, and an abattis in front, 
composed of trees branching outwards, while the 
enemy were completely shielded by the strength of 
their 'fortifications. After continuing the attack for 
upwards of four hours, General Abercrombie was 
obliged to wiiluhaw his troo|i.s, with the loss of one 
thousand eiglil hundred killed and wounded, and two 
thousand five hundred stands of arms, which fell into 
the enemy's hands. The next attempt of the Fng- 
lish to capture this Fort was more successful. In 
Jul}-, 17.')!), GeiuM-al Andicrst, \\ith twelve thousand 
men took the fortress, which was about the lime that 
General Wolfe took Quebec. 

On the breaking out of the Ameiican Revolution, 
Colonel Ethan Allen, entering by a subterranean psis- 
.sage, which is still to be seen, again took jiosscssion 
of the Fort. It fell into the hands of the Biitish 
again, who retained it till the close of the campaign, 
which resulted in its surrendrr. There are the re- 
mains of another fortification built during the Revo- 
lutionary War still remaining farther South, on the 
point adjoining the Lake, 'i'lie walls next to the 
Lake are nearly sixty feet high. Other engagements 
also took place here, but it is ditiicult now to realize 
in traversing its cultivated fields and peaceful solitudes, that it 
was once the scene of siudi sanguinary contests. 

The ancient City of SeiiENKCXAUV, according to tradition, 
seems to have been long before the knowledge of it by Euro- 
peans, the head-quarters of the powerful tribe of the Jlohawks 
who at that lime are .said to have mustered eight hundred war- 
riors. In 1690, a partv of French and their Indian allies from 
Canada, came in the dead of the night, massacred most of the 
inhabitants, and burn, every Iiouse in the city. There are now- 
several noble buildings erected here: among others is Union 
College, built on an eminence, a large Hotel, Churches, &e. 
The city is t-ituated on the northern i-hore of the beaulii'u! 
Jlohawi; Bivcr, over which an elegant bridge has been con- 
structeil, eight hundred feet in length. Crossing this bridge, 
the road lies priru-ipally along the banks of the Mohawk. 1 he 
flat regions stretching in the neighborhood of t chenectady, .nnd 
so completely surrounded by hills. Dr. Mitchell supposed to 
have been formerly the bed of a ^vide lake which, as its outlet 
wore away, has dwindled into the comp.aratively insignificant 
Valley of the Blohawk. 

Amsterdam, sixteen miles distant, is the first village of any 
magnitude that is reached on the route. It owes its importance 
to its proximity to the river and the Erie Canal; but its .attrac- 
tion.s, more especially to the creek which p,asses through it, and 
which, within half a mile, in its fall, presents several beautiful 
cascades. A short distance to the South the road ))a.sses round 
the base of "Tripes Hill,'' w Inch aflbrds an interesting prospect 
of the country, including the romantic Valley of the Mohawk, 
Schoharie Creek, the Erie Canal, and the village of CAUtiU- 
NAWAG.t. At "Tripes Hill,'' or "Tribes Hill," there is an ex- 
cavation of some magnitude, through solid rock. After passing 
a beautiful valley, spread out for several miles with line mead- 
ows, the road becomes contracted by bold and lofty mountains, 
aft'ording, for some distance, scarcely width for the railroad. 
One of the highest of these mountains, called the Aose, eontidns 
a cavern of great extent. It is called Mitchell's Cave, or the 
Cavern of Canajuhark, from its proximity to the village of 
that n.ame. This cave w-as di-scovered in 1821. It contains 
eighteen or twenty ap.artinents. The descent of the whole 
range is very steep and hazardous. It measures about ibnr 
hundred and twenty feet below the level ot the entrance. The 
following brief account of a visit to this cave, is from the jour- 
nal of Mr. Slansburj'. 

"With a guide, lighted candles, and ropes fastened to an ad- 
joining tree, w-e prepared to descend. Lowering ourselves 
twenty-five feet by the rope, we reached the floor of the first 
room, which was a large, black, and gloomy expansion of sec- 
ondary lime-stone rock. It was of no regular form, having 
projections in one part, dismal hollow-s in another, and narrow 
water-w-<u-n crevices leading to other ap.artments, w hith ajipear- 
ed impenetrable. The floin- descending vertically, we were 
obliged to creep upon our hands and feet. I'he arching of the 
roof was hung with beautiful pendant stalaciites, curling in vr,- 
rious forms of glittering icicles .and sparry chandeliers, rcflecling 
the light of our candles with lU>toni^hing splendor. On the 



right a very contracted aperture opened into a lateral chamber, 
and near it tlie riplin^ of a clear fountain sounded musically 
among the gloomy cre\"ices and apartments. With some diffi- 
culty \vc crept to the lower end of the room, where several 
other passages branched off in dismal blackness. We again 
descended forty feet to the floor of a second room, which bore 
close resemblance to the fonner, but still more magnificent, al- 
though there were no conical stalactites hanging from the ceil- 
ing, yet the sides were ornamented by a variety of fanciful fig- 
ures, some of human beings, caused by the oozings of the wa- 
ter having lime in solution, which produced a very brilliant 
eflfect. The floor of this room also was on a steep declivity, 
and terminated by a narrow pjissage to a third room, which again 
bore a resemblance to tliose already described. Proceeding down- 
wards we found ourselves impeded in our further progress by 
an extremely narrow and difficult pass. A cord was tied around 
the body of our guide, who discovered e\ ident tigns of reluc- 
tance to penetrate fui'ther into the liorrible abyss. We lower- 
ed him do\ni, however, with liis candle, the flame of which 
shone up the winding passage, whilst at intervals his voice was 
echoed do«Ti the terrific chasm, calling on us to lower him or 
to hold him fast. At length the cord ran out, and lie was not 
near the bottom, upon which he was liauled up, covered with 
dirt, his arm bleeding, from a wound received by the projection 
of some of the rocks, looking more than anything else like the 
ghost of some terrible warrior cited from the grave. Abund- 
ance of rock or quartz crystals are found upon the adjacent 
grounds." 

Crossing Palatine Bridge, upon Garoga Creek, the valley 
becomes more contracted between a rocky barrier of great 
height, not very dissimilar in appearance to the Palisades of 
the Hudson. Fragments of huge, colossal rocks are here ])iled 
up in wild confusion, while the beautiful stream of the Mo- 
hawk now calmly flows along its deep sequestered vallies, or 
dashes in wild and terrific grandeur over its precipitous and 
craggy chasms. As you proceed to Little Falls, all at once 
the descending current with its fleecy foam, comes tumbling 
impetuously down from every fissure of the immense rocks, 
heaped high and imminent about the falls, which are covered 
with tall hickories, maples and pines, proudly shaking their 
branches upon the airy heights, while lu.xuriant shrubs and 
bushes lie scattered along the verdant margin of the deep and 
rugged glen beneath. Tliese mountains are a continuation of 
the Katsbergs. In this scene, where the rude but magnificent 



works of nature, are so profusely displayed, the imagination is 
overpowered by their sublimity, and the proudest works of art 
in the comparison, lose themselves in almost utter insignifi- 
cance. Even tlie Canal, cut upon the mighty and enduring 
precipice — the road entrenched upon the mountain side and 
the substantial Acqueduct locks and gates all seem unimpor- 
tant, surrounded as they are by the magnificence and sublimity 
of these everlasting hills. After leaving the Little Falls of 
the Mohawk a delightful plain stretches about seven miles, 
which is called the German Flats, which leads to the village 
of Hekkimer, so called after a brave General of that name, 
who was killed at the battle of Oriskany. During the French 
wars this was the scene of much sanguinary warfare. 

West Canada Cheek, on which are the celebrated Trenton 
Falls, enters the Mohawk river, about half a mile East of the 
village, and is passed near its mouth, by a well constructed 
bridge. A distressing accident occurred here a few years since. 
A young man in company with a party visiting one of these 
cascades, called Sherman's Falls, incautiously stepping into the 
rapids, they irresistibly carried him over the falls. 

The river here passes through a dark rocky chasm of con- 
siderable length, presenting a beautiful variety of rapids, eddies, 
and cascades. There are numerous marine petril'action and 
organic remains to be found here. About five miles onward 
stands the village of Frankfort. The beautiful city of 
Utica, now gradually bursts upon the view. 

Utica occupies the site of old Fort Schuyler, celebrated in 
the annals of the Revolutionary W^ir. It is situated on the 
right or South bank of the Mohawk. The ruins of this Fort 
may yet be seen, between the eastern extremity of Main Street 
and the river. This city was first settled in 1784. The 
streets here are regularly laid out, diverging in all directions, 
down the valley of the Mohawk to Schenectady, westward to 
Buffalo, to the vallies of the Delaware and Susquehannah to 
the South, and northward to Sacketts' Harbor. Utica also 
contains numerous elegant Hotels, private dwellings, public 
institutions, stores, &c. Numerous country seals and farms 
surround this city, which present a varied and richly culti- 
vated landscape. Within a few miles, in a westerly direction, 
are Whitesborough, the York Mills, Clinton Village, containing 
Hamilton College, and Rome. The last named occupies the 
site of the celebrated Fort Stanwix. This fort was commanded 
in 1777 by Col. Gansevoort, when Col. St. Leger with a party 
from Burgoj-ne's array and numerous Indians, suddenly sur- 




VIEW OF CATSKILL LANDING FROM OAKHILL. 



^ 



30 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 




HUDSON. 



rounded it and caused its surrender. The former, however, in 
connection with Gen. Herkimer and Arnold, compelled St. 
Lcger an;ain to evacuate the fort, leaving behind him all the 
stores and artillery. 

Following the usual track and passing the villages of New 
Hartford, Manchester and Vernon, the ne.vt object of interest 
is Oneida Ciustlc, which formerly was occupied by the Oneida 
and Tuscarora Indians. They, like most other Indian tribe,'! 
have since gone to the "Far West." Passing an elevated track, 
a chain of lofty mountains is seen stretching along the horizon 
to the North. Here also are immense and almost impenetrable 
forests. About six miles farther on, is Chittenango, situ.ited on 
a creek of that name. Here are to be seen numerous specimens 
of petrifactions. These incrustations are formed by various 
springs, which issue from the sides of a hill in the vicinity of 
the village. 

Adjacent to the village of Jamesville is Green Pond. Its 
depth is about two hundred feet, and is so called from the 
color of its waters, which emit a strong smell of sulphur. 
About four miles beyond, is Onondaga Hollow, a benutiful 
valley, through which the creek of that name passes. A con- 
siderable settlement of the Onondaga Indians once occupied 
the spot, about three miles to the South of this, where grand 
councils of the Six Nations were held. In this town, at Pom- 
pey and Camillus, are some extensive ancient fortifications and 
vestiges of towns, supposed to be of great antiipiity. Other 
remarkable ruins are situated on the east b.ank of the Che- 
nango River, near the village of Oxford. There are also oth- 
ers near Auburn, Canandaigua, and Scipio, and several between 
the Seneca and Cayuga Lakes. Near the Tonawanda Creek, 
some interesting antiquities are described by Dr. Kirkland, con- 
sisting of two forts, occupying from four to eight acres each, 
which are supposed to have enclosed the ancient towns. This 
place is called by the Senecas, Tegataineagahque, or double 
fortified toN\m. Here were also discovered the remains of a 
funeral pile of about six feet elevation, through which numer- 
ous human bones appeared. Although these remains are more 
thickly scattered over the territory once occupied by the cele- 
brated tribes of the Six Nations, from whence some might sup- 
pose them to be of Indian origin, it is yet the opinion of other 
learned writers, that they must be of a far anterior construction. 
Eastman in his history of this State, considers th.at these anti- 
quities afford sufficient evidence of the remote existence of a 
v:ust population in a far more .advanced state of civilization th.in 
has ever been known to have obtained jimong the Indian tribes. 

About eight miles from Onondaga Hill, situated in the valley 
of ihe Otisco Creek, is Makcellus. Two miles to the North 
of this are falls of about seventy feet, near which, water-lime 
or cement is to be found in great abund.ince; also a beautiful 
petrifaction of trees partly covered with lime-stone. 

Skaneateles, a neat village, is about six miles beyond. 
Here again are to be seen picturesque ciscades, which are pre- 
cipitated over rocky bluffs, about seventy feet. The city of 



Auburn, on the Owasco Creek, is about seven miles distant 
from Skaneateles. Auburn derives much of its importance 
from the numerous manufactories and mills which are in its 
vicinity. It contains many public buildings, among the most 
important of which is the State Prison, which is considered one 
of the most complete in the Union. So admirable has been the 
discipline of this prison, that a large portion of the convicts dis- 
charged have, on their release, become honest and industrious 
men. The .system adopted here is similar to that of the prison 
at Sing Sing. 

About seven miles to the West, is the Village and Lake of 
Cayuga. The scenery here is very beautiful, especially along 
the banks of the Lake. Several mineral springs, having a sul- 
phurous crust about the stones which surround them, are to be 
seen. These sulphur springs produce sulphate of lime or gyp- 
sum in great abundance, which is conveyed by the great Canal 
over a large extent of country. It is remarkable that the level 
plains between this and I.jike Erie present, beneath the allu- 
vion, first a layer of lime, variously combined, containing shells 
and fossil remains; then another of massive slate, under which 
beds of s.uid-stone are to be seen in the deep ravines and 
chasms. For the number of its lakes, as well as its moun- 
tains, rivers and waterfalls, the State of New York may be con- 
sidered as unrivalled by any other in the United States. In 
pursuing only the ordinary beaten route, the tourist loses 
much that is interesting and picturesque in this vicinity. 

"The Falls of Fall River, near Itiiaca," says a modern tour- 
ist, "are seen on entering the Village from the steamboat land- 
ing. Its height is one hundred and sixteen feet, with propor- 
tionate breadth. Two immense piles of rocks enclose the 
stream, and on the right hand, high up the bank, a mill-race is 
seen winding round an acute angle in the rocks, suspended in 
mid-air, and now and then an adventurous visitor carefully 
treading his way along the dizzy path. This raceway was built 
in an extraordinary way. A person let himself down from a 
tree standing on a high point above, and swinging over the 
giddy steep, he there dug out places in the rock in which to 
fasten the principal supporters of the race. The view from 
this point is grand and impressive. A short distance from this, 
up the rocky bed of the creek, the visitor proceeds until his 
steps are arrested by another splendid Fall, the bank present- 
ing the most curious forms and the most surprising strata. This 
Fall, though not so high as the preceding, is more beautiful 
and wild. The raceway has gone to ruin, and instead, a tun- 
nel has been excavated, which is equally worth inspection. The 
Fall of these waters within one mile is said to be four hundred 
and thirty-eight feet. On the Six Mile Creek, and also the 
VivQ Mile Creek, arc to be found some exceedingly beautiful 
and romantic falls and cascades. They are to be seen near the 
village. That known as the Taghcanic, is perhaps the most 
deserving of notice, its descent is two hundred and sixty-two 
feet, perpendicular, terminating in a beautiful ravine — the width 
of the stream is about sLxty feet The steamer leaves East 



\r- 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



31 



Ca)mga every day. A projected ship canal, uniting Cayuga 
Lake and Sodus Bay, is in progress, and will give, when com- 
pleted, great natural advantages to the adjacent village of Mon- 
tezuma. 

The next important place we arrive at In the route to the Falls 
of Niagara, is Rochester. This City, which has been named 
Western New York, is one of great trade. It is situated on 
the Genesee River, and possesses a water communication with 
New York, Quebec and the great lakes. Near the centre of 




the town is an aqueduct buili upon eleven arelies of hewn stone, 
upwards of eight hundred feet in length. About eighty rods 
from the city are the Great Falls, ninety-seven feet high. It 
was here the celebrated jumper, Sam Patch, made his last leap, 
in 1829. It is said he precipitated himself from an elevation 
of one liundrcd and sevenfy-five feet, being from a scaffolding 
erected on the projteting Tatile Rock. An immense con- 
course of people had .assembled to witness the daring, and as 
it proved, fatal exploit. Passing onward a distance of forty- 
four miles, is Oak Orchard. It is located on a creek of that 



,L 



name. The largest arch on the whole line of canal is at this 
place, over which the canal crosses the creek. Nineteen miles 
farther is the vill.ige of Lockport. Here are five double locks 
on the canal, above which the latter is cut through solid rock 
a distance of three miles, and about twenty feet in depth. A 
stage leaves this place for Niagara, the distance to the Ameri- 
can" Fall being about thirty miles. Black Rock, on the West 
bank of the river, is three miles to the East of Butlalo. This 
beautiful city is situated on the junction of Lake Erie and the 
Canal, and being the great thoroughfare to the 
Falls of Niagara and the Canadas, is one of great 
resort and importance. The hotels here are of the 
first order. Stages for Chippewa Village, passing 
round Grand Island, leave Buflido every morning. 
Opposite Black Rock is the Village of Waterloo, on 
the Canada side, which is accessible by a ferry. The 
cataracts of Niagara are situated partly in Canada 
and the State of New York ; they are first approach- 
ed from the latter. It is impossible, adequately to 
portray, in words, the majestic beauty and sublim- 
ity of the scene w hich is here presented to the eye 
of the spectator. Imagine the broad and mighty 
waters of an immense river, a mile in width, rushing 
impetuously over a perpendicular rocky palisade 
one hundred and sixty feet high, and the consequent 
agitation of its foaming waters, its tremendously 
grand and never-ceasing roar, the curious anomaly 
of its radiant bow beaming in all its rich variety of 
hue, and the m.ajestic complacency of the surround- 
ing rocks and aged pines which seem to rear them- 
selves as in mockery of the fiat which has doomed 
all sublunary things to decay and death ; imagine 
all this, and you form some faint idea of the vast- 
ness and splendor of the magnificent Niagara. _ To 
enjoy the various views aftbrded by the American 
and Canadian Falls, it will be desirable to seek a 
giiide, and one may easily be met witli at the hotels. 
These Falls are situate about twenty miles from 
Lake Erie, and fourteen from Ontario. The Niag- 
ara River unites the waters of both of the above 
Lakes. The Horseshoe Fall is of a curved form, 
and measures one hundred and fifty-eight feet, while 
that of the American side is somewhat concave and 
descends to a depth of one hundred and sixty-four 
feet. Table Rock is gener.ally considered the most 
eligible spot to command a view of the Falls, .since 
it forms a projection of about fifty feet. There is a 
descent from the rocks by an enclosed circular stair- 
case which leads to the passage behind the great 
sheet of water, called cave of iEolus, it is fifty feet 
wide and a hundred feet high. A giude is neces- 
sary here as also a dress prepared for the purpose. 
The scene is the most sublime from Termination 
Rock, so named from its being the furthest approach- 
able spot from which a p.anoramic view can be ob- 
tained. The Album kept at the hotel contains an 
amusing collection of poetic effusions and impromp- 
tus, (fee, on viewing the Falls. The bridge thrown 
across (he rapids about one quarter of a mile above 
the Falls, leads to Bath Island, which is also con- 
nected by another to Go.at Island — also Brig Island, 
which is similarly united, and is in the form of the 
main and quarter-decks of a brig. On Goat Island 
is the stair case, and from its elev.ation the celebra- 
ted Sam Patch leaped in 1829, being one hundred and 
eighteen feet, into the water below. A noble view 
is commanded by this platform of the Falls and sur 
rounding scenery. Terrapin Bridge is now only 
safely accessible as far as the Tower, to which it 
leads, although it extends ten feet over the Falls. 
About three miles below the Falls there may be seen, espe- 
cially at low water, the curious phenomenon of a whirlpool, 
caused by a sudden turn in the channel of the waters. About 
one mile further onward is a precipice called Devil's Hole, sup- 
posed to have once been the site of a cataract. Lastly, from 
the roof and piazzas of the P.-ivilion Hotel, a beautiful view is 
to be obtained of the Falls. It is computed that during an 
hour about one thousand six hundred millions of cubic feet of 
water pass over these Fall.s. 

-J 



=!J 



32 



THE HUDSON ILLUSTRATED. 



For a description of tho Ciinadas and surrounding country, 
as well as more ample details respecting the Falls of Niagara, 
the tourist is referred to the numerous CJuide Books published 
on the spot, as well as at Albany and elsewhere. Brock's 
monument, erected some time since to the niem.iry of the gal- 
lant Sir Isaac Brock, who fell in an engagement with the Amer- 
icans in 1812, has since been partially destroyed ; the shaft was 
one hundred and twenty-six feet, and it was intended to have 
placed a statue of the (jeneral on its summit. Many neigh- 
boring places are worthy of inspection by the visitor. Youtigs- 
town, about half a mile' from the mouth of the river: also. Fort 
Ni.-igara, Ixiwi.ston, Lundy's L:uie, Fort George, &c., have all 
become places of historic interest — in fact, to the American, 
"cliLssic ground." 

But here we are compelled, reluctantly, to close our rambling 
and desultory notes, which portray but' too feebly the inlercst- 
ing localities they severally indicate, and which have indeed 
already extended beyond their prescribed limits. At part- 
ing, wo need only suggest to the reader the forcible lines of 
Brainerd on that " crowning wonder of tho New World," the 



fame of which ha.s attracted pilgrim feet from all parta of the 

civilized globe. 

" It would seem 
As if God poured tliec from his 'hollow hand,' 
.\nJ liunj; his bow upon thine awful front, 
.All.! spoke ill llial loud voice which seemed to liini 
Who dwelt in I'atrnos for his Saviour's sake, 
'The sound of many waters,' and had bade 
The flood to elironiclo the apres back. 
And notch his cent'ries in the eternal rocks. 

Deep callcth nnto deep. And what arc wc 

That hear the question of that voice Bublimo? 

Or what are all the notes that ever rung 

From war's vain trumpet, by thy thundering side? 

Yea, what is all the riot man can make 

In his slioi't life to thy unc.'asing roar? 

And yet, bold babbler, what art thou to Him 

Who drowned the world, ami heaped the waters far 

Above its loftiest mountains? a light wave 

Tliat breaks and whispers of its Maker's might." 



ify Xttamboat from Jk'tw York to Albany, 

New "YorVc. to 
Hoboken, ..... 

Weehawken, 

Blooiningdale, .... 

Bull's Ferry, 

Manhattanville, .... 
Fort Lee, ..... 
Fort Washington, .... 
Spuyten Dnyvel Creek, . 
yonkers, ..... 

Hastings, 

Dobb's Ferry, .... 

Dearinan's, ..... 

Piermont, 

Irving, ..... 

Tarrytown, 

Nyack, 

Sing Sing, 

Croton, 

Haverstraw, 

Grassy Point, .... 

Verplanck's Point, .... 
Caldwell's Lnnding, 
West Point, .... 

Cold Spring, .... 

Cornwall, ..... 
New Windsor, .... 

Newburgh 

Low Point, 

New ILimburgh, .... 

H.ttnpton, 

Marlborough, .... 

Milton, 

Poughkeepsie, .... 

Hyde Park, 

Staatsburgh, 

Rhinebeck, 

Kiug.ston, ..... 

Tivoli, 

Bristol, 

Catskill 

Hudson, ..... 

Coxsackie, ..... 

Stuyvesani, 

Kinderhook Landing, 

New Baltimore, .... 

Coeymans, .... 

Cast'leton 

Van Wio's Point, 

Albany, .... 



MAP OF THE inn)SON. 




liy Railroad from .liban 


tf to yiagara 




Albany to miles 


Centre House, 8 


Schenectady, 




17 


Amsterdam, 




33 


Tribe's Hill, 






39 


Fond;i, .... 






44 


Palatine Bridge, 






65 


Fort Plain, 






68 


St. Johnsville, 






64 


Little Falls, 






74 


Utica, 






95 


Whitcsboro, 






99 


Oriskanv, 






102 


Rome, 






109 


Verona Centre, . 






118 


Oneid.n, 






122 


Canastota, 






127 


Canaserag.1, 






131 


Chittenango, 






133 


Manlius, 






140 


Syracuse, 






143 


Caniillus, 






157 


Slarcellus, 






162 


Skaneateles Junction, 






164 


Anbuin, 






174 


Cayuga Bridge, 






191 


Seneca Falls, 






194 


Waterloo, 






, 201 


Genev.i, 






212 


East Vicnn.i, 






. 214 


Clifton Springs, . 






. 216 


Canandaigua, 






. 223 


Victor, 






. 232 


Fisher's, 






237 


Pittsford, . 






. 242 


Uoeliester, 






. 252 


('hurchville, 






. 266 


Wardville, 






. 269 


Byron, 






. 277 


Batavia, 






. 285 


Alexander, 






, 293 


Attica, 






. 296 


l).'.rien City, 






. 301 


Darien, 






303 


Alden, 






308 


Town Line, 






313 


Ijincaster, 






318 


Clark's Branch, 






322 


Dufliilo, 






328 


Niagara, 






350 



For the accommodation of the tourist, wo subjoin a brief Table of Distances, from the City of New York, to the leading 
places of interest on the route to the Falls of Ni.agara, by Steamboat and Railroad. 



1 



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jlllillrjili' illil'lllllwll" "ill '''"'"'" 
014 109 702 7 < 



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